Restarting Monte, Last Day and Postscript

On the last day that Monte's new owner was here, I showed her how I went about loading Monte in the trailer. He had only been in a trailer once since he was brought home seven plus years ago. When I started to get him ready to load the week before, he was hesitant to load, initially putting his front feet in the trailer then stepping back.

So I just waited on him. Asking him to step up again on a soft lead, put both front feet there and keeping them in the trailer, for several times, was a good start.

When he was good about just keeping his front feet in the trailer, then I would softly touch him on his barrel (I got Monte used to my hand, the poppers on the lead gently swinging up sand touching him, and the flag as well), where the rear cinch would go, in order to get him to bring a rear foot up preparing for a step into the trailer. If you have done your work sacking him out with the flag, this works the best or even use just a stick to extend your reach. This step is often skipped by some and results in a horse's having to jump into the trailer creating nose and anxiety, and we all want a nice calm horse stepping into the trailer without any drama.

Once I had a rear foot step forward, the opposite rear would follow by itself or with another touch on his barrel. Then I could ask for a step into the trailer using a bit of feel on the loose lead rope. Many horse's have issues with backing up in a trailer and having that step down. While this is not a trailer loading article, if Monte wanted to backout on his own without me asking, I let him, and I waited on him to figure out the stepping down business. Soon he was stepping right into the trailer and waiting on me to ask him to back. What we did not video was sending Monte into the trailer, that is standing outside the trailer and using a loose lead, asking him to go forward into the trailer, which he was a champ at. I had worked on trailer loading, prio to Arlene getting here, so by the time we shot the below video, Monte was good and calm at loading. I trailered him to the Mobile Vet clinic, a few days before, for a Coggins blood draw, so the time we got to his new owners last day here, he was just as good as could be loading and unloading.

When the transport rig showed up, Monte stepped right into the slant load and was a gentleman about it. I am going to miss him. He had the kindest eye of any horse and all the visitors to the ranch always gravitated to Monte. He is now at his new home, running around a 10 acre turnout with his new barn mate, a 16 year old mare.

Restarting Monte, Past 5

When we started with ground work on Monte, I introduced him to following a feel on the lead rope moving to be able to control a foot with the lead rope and now in the saddle with a snaffle bit outfit, I continued that with asking him to step out with a front leg. With more of a horse's weight on their front feet, often when you ask the horse to walk off either straight or at an angle, a front foot may move forward and it seems like a stumble or a hard step and sometimes it seems like the back end is an after thought or follows like being pulled forward.

So for much of when I ask for forward movement after I throw a leg over a horse, I ask for the horse to step to out to the side a front foot. In the beginning it helps to rock a horse back so his body weight is shifted some to the hind end. This is much like a human rocking weight to one leg/foot in order to push off with that foot and step out with the other. Putting a change, even a small change, of the weight on the hind end makes it easier for the horse to pickup a front foot and place it out.

I think of it as picking that foot up with a direct rein, much like I did on the ground with the lead rope, and placing that foot outside and to the front. This is the beginning of a turn on the haunches and is going to help you be able to do turn arounds on the horse. With a horse having a difficult time picking a front foot up and out, it is sometimes beneficial to back the horse a step and as a hind foot makes contact with the ground going back an a front foot will be doing the same (as they back in the two beat foot fall pattern). Then ask for the front foot that is coming off the ground to step out. Certainly some will try to get a front foot to step out thinking it has to do so on a particular back foot making contact with the ground, either the same side hind or the opposite hind. I think both are actually correct. On turn arounds with forward momentum, I leave it to the horse to choose that hind foot but if he is sluggish, I'll often stop, back a step then ask for the turn, much like a roll back. But I getting ahead of myself, Monte was in the beginning of picking up a front foot and placing it out on an ask with the rein.

Onto side passing. This is something I'll normally work on later in a horse's development, I am including it for two reasons. 1 - because a lady wrote me a week before I re-started Monte asking for help in getting her and her mare to side pass, and 2 - Monte was getting capable at side passing as I had pretty good early control of his head and neck, front end and hind end which are all necessary to being able to side pass. I wanted him to have a basic understanding of this before he was shipped out.

In clinics I'll ask riders want they want to work on. When I get a response like, "I'd like to be able to side pass or open gates", I get the rider's to work on control over head and neck (lateral flexion and vertical softness), and moving front end independently from the hind end and vice versa. Sometimes I'll get a comment like, "I already do that, I'd just like to work on side passing". Invariably, or at some riders and their horses don't have an understanding of asking for the independent movements of those parts of the horse. Otherwise they would be better prepared to side pass and open gates.

When you ask for a side pass using your leg (calf) right behind the front cinch (think of it as stirrup position 2) the horse not understanding at first will likely move either the front end or the hind end over first. As the horse moves sideways, the front end or the hind end may lag behind hence being able to control and move the lagging part to catch up is necessary. The more you do this, the smoother the horse will get. In the beginning only asking for a small side pass and build on that and later don't be greedy and ask the horse to side pass 30 yards. Stop asking before the horse gets dull.

The side pass without checking the horse's forward movement or asking for continuous forward movement becomes a leg yield. That is sideways movement with forward momentum. This is also called two tracking. That would be another understanding for the horse and valuable as you can control the position of the horse much better and useful in everything from to controlling better and rounder circles, to leg yielding or getting forward lateral movement towards a gate or around an obstacles, to keeping a horse looking at something like a calf while you position his body with lateral movement.

Restarting Monte, Part 4

Once in the saddle, beginning on Day Two of Monte's restart, I worked on lateral flexion and untracking his hind end using as minimal leg pressure as I could because he was , at first, very reactive to it. I need the lateral flexion to control direction and the hind end untracking (often also referred to disengaging the hind end) to do so many things from stopping him to turn arounds.

In the beginning Monte would jump sideways from any pressure with my leg to untracking his hind end, but from Day Two to Day Three he made good progress responding softly to my ask for his hind end to untrack....again something we could build on. As for lateral flexion, Monte would give me his head and neck pretty softly, but would also untracking his hind end without me asking for that, which is real common.


I think there are two basic things to remember here, 1 - when you ask for lateral flexion as soon as he gives you that and is soft, meaning no brace or pushing on you, then the release have to be immediate (the all important timing and recognition of softness) and the pause, before asking, again is sufficient. I have seen some riders ask for lateral flexion, left then right, then left then right, without any pause whatsoever, so the pressure just runs into each other becoming one long pressure where the slight and short releases and non existent pauses don't mean anything to the horse. 2 - when you ask for lateral flexion, if the horse untracks his hind end, wait for him to stop, then when he is not moving nor leaning, give him the release. With Monte he was not 100% consistent with always giving lateral flexion on the ask, but he understood enough to be able to build on that. I did not expect anything different, but he was better than I was expecting.

So now we are moving onto directional control with forward momentum. Since nothing I had done with Monte so far involved using both my legs at the same time, it was easy for him to quickly understand that slight pressure with both legs, using my calves, was asking him to transition from the walk to the trot. He is a naturally forward horse, unlike some, so it was really easy to get him to move out. In the beginning he would jump out being reactive to pressure, but I minimized that concentrating on as light as pressure as possible on his barrel and giving him a loose rein. What is not shown in any video is earlier is when I was sending Monte around from the ground I would pickup the stirrup with my free hand and touch him on his barrel preparing him for the cue to go forward from the walk to the trot. This is good to do on young horses as the first time they experience pressure on their barrel from the stirrup or your calf/heel on the ground they will better be able to handle that from the saddle....normally.

For directional control at the trot, I was first using a direct rein, then the inside leg to untrack in a turn, then I added a neck rein or using the outside rein first before the other two cues. Later on he could turn with just a neck rein. What we did not video was Monte's trot to canter transitions which were pretty smooth. Not flawless, but something to build on after just 10-12 rides.

Restarting Monte, Part 3

Although this is part 3 of Re-starting Monte, I began untracking him on the lead rope around his hind end on the first day of ground training. And on the second day of his re-start, wearing a saddle and carrying a snaffle bit, I continued to get him supple and untrack his hind end for those turn arounds and giving to pressure. While we did not shoot video on using the lead rope to untrack his hind end, you'll see the untracking using the lead portion of the mecate reins as I continue with Monte understanding to giving to pressure on a direct rein. You have to be careful with a green or very responsive horse, all horses actually, so that he doesn't step into you as he feels the mecate lead on his side opposite you, so the angle and distance to your horse and his hind end should be safe for the handler. Soon the horse may be anticipating this so be ready for him to move his hind end over before you pickup the slack or otherwise put a feel in the lead rope. Monte would sometimes step in the opposite direction and this was simply because I did not do enough of this untracking exercise.

As the horse untracks with the mecate lead across his hind end, you can do the same untracking with the mecate lead just looped over the saddle horn. He may struggle at first but give him time to search and find the release. The first time I did this with Monte without a saddle and just using the lead rope, he untracked really fast like a corkscrew as it worried him. A few more times and he was responsive but lost his apprehensiveness about the pressure. I just make sure the release is followed by a longer pause, perhaps 10 seconds before asking again.

Getting the horse to pick a rider up off the fence. I had first seen this over 20 years ago and immediately got my horses comfortable with this, as I had pretty bad knee pain that made mounting from the ground pretty hard. Since then I have healed my knees, but having horses pickup you when you ask them to is a good tool to have available. We all have seen young people climb into a saddle......someone 5'1" tall mounting a 16 hand horse, like monkeys climbing a tree for a banana, but trust me when I say if you are an old person you will be grateful getting the horse to do this.

This is best to start with a lead rope. Sitting on the fence, with the horse usually perpendicular to you, I will bump the lead rope until the horse searches for a release by moving his back end or even starting to just lean his hind end towards me. Its important to give the release with good timing and give the horse a good pause before bumping again. Continue until he is close and parallel where you can mount. If you did a good job with the horse on following a soft feel on stepping forward and backing, you can direct a step or two forward or back for easier and safer mounting from the fence.

Before you mount for the first couple times, while maintaining a solid foot and hand on the fence, use your other foot touch the horse where you can, rub your foot on his barrel and butt, and place weight on his back or in the saddle. You want to avoid spooking him seeing and feeling you above him once you are committed, so get him used to some feel of your boot and weight in the saddle and your foot in his opposite eye.

I don't get on a horse that is moving. I work with him to stand still while I mount, but still have control of the mecate reins or lead while I am mounting, and once I throw a leg over if the horse starts to move out, I'll check him. I try to be light but smooth getting in the saddle as opposed to a sumo wrestling flopping on a couch. With re-starting Monte, I mounted from the fence maybe four times. The first two times he began to walk off, but again I asked him to stop and wait on me. When I am in the saddle, and he is waiting on me and I am ready to walk out, I rock his hind end back or step back then ask a front foot to step away from the fence then move out. If you gave the horse a decent understanding from the ground work with connecting the lead to the front foot, this will be easier. Be satisfied with the smallest step out. The important thing is that he tries and is not moving forward without your direction. In fact, I rarely mount and have the horse step right out to the front. This helps alleviate anticipation down the road.

Sometimes it only takes a few minutes to get a horse to understand his part in picking you up from thr fence, a trailer fender, a mounting block, etc. In clinics I have started many rider's horses on this, although it has to be reinforced to be reliable. Once a horse is good about this, they sometimes become anticipatory and move to pickup up before you ask. If this happens I just re-set them, as by now I can control their feet with the mecate lead, and have the horse wait until I ask to be picked up.

Restarting Monte, Part 2

Continuing with Monte, I worked with him to understand the slight differences in asking for a front foot to step out and being sent following a loose lead rope. This was really just checking in on him as I had been leading him to turnout almost on a daily basis and he was good about following a soft ask to step out past me and walk off. However, I did spend that time going back and forth being asking for a front foot to step out and being sent so those slight changes in the feel of a lead rope were very evident to him. In clinics I often ask riders on the ground to send their horses past them and continue at a walk a fairly small circle. Many people will step out of the way of their horses and abruptly take up the slack in the lead never giving their horse a chance to follow a soft feel on a loose lead. And in annual Arena Challenges I ran, I sometimes had a final a task where the rider dismounted and sent their horse past them between two barrels. Often, the vast majority of riders could not do this simple task as they always led their horses someplace as opposed to getting them good as being sent. Being able to send your horses is a valid deal as you may have a gate or a trailer where can't go first and lead your horse through or into. So the short video below was just a reminder to checkin with Monte from time to time on being sent, and untracking him as if you send a horse through a gate, I want a horse to be able to untrack and face up as I latch or close the gate.

Being able to get forward momentum is very necessary to make progress with a horse. They need to be able to trot and lope and to do so without the rider constantly pulling on the horse's mouth. I want to be able to make subtle cues to go from the walk to the trot and want the horse to softly, but responsively go into that gait. I would think everyone wants that. In the beginning Monte, being very reactive, would be troubled when asked for the trot he would jump into a stilted, choppy anxious trot. Not what I wanted but I would let him continue until I saw the slightest sign of anxiety reducing then ask him to face up. Then ask again. Also in he beginning I would give him a good pause before asking his front to step over and go the other direction. His head going up and bracing, soon gave way to a much softer head and neck, something we could build on both on the ground and in the saddle.

Restarting Monte, Part 1

Monte is a registered Arabian from Polish Arab stock and was used an on the track racehorse before my late my wife bought him when he was 15 years old. A really handsome Bay Gelding, she could not pass him up when he became available as she was, then, successfully passing cancer treatment and was looking for an additional trail horse to complement her steady Sorrel Gelding Charlie who was then in his late 20's. But just as soon as we brought him home, my wife's cancer came back. Subsequent brain surgeries and radiation made riding, especially a very reactive Arab, a dangerous proposition. So Monte basically became a companion horse for my wife's two other horses for just over 7 years.

For those seven years, I had been taking Monte out of the pens and turning him out. In doing so I had to get him to lead on a soft feel, rate his speed and position, stopping, and backing. Subsequently he became soft in his face and generally a gentleman. That was the extent of his handling and his understanding. So, that routine along with the farrier trimming his feet every 8 weeks, getting brushed and groomed, and, Vet calls for annual Coggins, health checks and teeth floating, were Monte's life. After my wife passed away late last year, her best friend Arlene, who was holding my wife's other hand when she passed, asked me if I would let Monte go to her. I readily acquiesced as that was a great idea and Monte would go to a great home. So we made plans for me to restart Monte and get him safe for her to ride and ready to ship to his new home. That day has came a few days ago. Although I had a seven day trip away from home followed by a 10 day bout of Sepsis which kind of set me back restarting Monte, I was able to work with him and ride him for almost 2 weeks prior to his ship date.

When Arlene flew in for a few days prior to shipping Monte to get exposed to what I had been doing with Monte and to ride him where I could watch and help. Day One was basically a demonstration on how I approached re-starting Monte, demonstrating both on the ground and in the saddle. Day Two was a repeat of Day One however we filmed much of it in short sessions, which I am including in this five part series, then having Arlene ride Monte so I could watch and help her and him. It was important that Arlene was here riding Monte before he was shipped because in my experience, working with a horse without the owner is much less effective than working with the horses and owner/rider. And Day Three was spent trailer loading, showing how I prepared Monte to load and backout, which would be useful as a basic template for loading other horses in the future.

In the beginning Monte was pretty reactive.....big, quick movements with the minimal pressure. It wasn't my first rodeo with an ex race horse as when I ran a large public barn people were bringing in ex racehorses from the local racetrack all the time. Some I helped when asked, others sadly enough were regulated to owners who wanted an immediate trail or roping horse without doing the work or understanding how to go about it. As I worked with Monte on following a soft feel on the reins to lead up I saw right off that Monte could come down emotionally and slow his reactions. And by leading up or becoming halter broke, I mean soft to halter; understands a neutral lead rope to stand and wait for a signal; to move forward on a soft feel; to back up on the same; responds when I start to connect the lead rope to directional control of each individual foot, and, gives to pressure when applied slowly and measurably.

Although seemingly a very basic way to re-start a horse, I think the understanding the horse gets from being softly asked for a response and given the time to respond really sets him up for success, as I'll be asking for the same, in the same way as I progress to the saddle and that occurred on day two. The text article and videos I'm posting through this five part series, are snippets or highlights of the 10-12 rides I put on Monte to get him ready, and safe, for Arlene. And these short videos were intended for Arlene to show I spent the time getting him ready for her. I hope this helps someone else.

We all need a horse to stand still until we direct him, so I worked with Monte understanding what neutral is. That is no feel on the lead rope. I call this neutral as eventually a horse will move, but he'll learn and become more and more responsive to a gradually pulling the slack out of the lead rope (and the lead rope will become a rein or the lead portion of a mecate soon) and move towards me. Many people don't worry about a horse understanding backing until later on in the starting process as forward momentum is so important. However, I like to get that working early on, as backing is useful to positioning a horse up in so many ways.....backing up to get room to open a gate, re-position from crowding you, re-positioning on the shoeing stand, and much more.

As I have on 2 and 3 year old's as well as older horse's being re-started, I can move right to connecting the lead rope to a foot by asking a front foot to step out to the side. This allows me and the horse a better start from the saddle when I ask the same with the rein. Then I move to the back end, standing right by the stirrup, or where the stirrup or front cinch would be if the horse has no saddle, with a loose lead I will rub and pet on him, sometimes making noise with the saddle until I pickup the lead alongside his body maybe slightly tipping his nose until he steps over and away from me, with the rear foot nearest me stepping underneath himself in front of the other rear foot, untracking his back end. This will be more and more useful as we go forward, doing turn arounds, facing up, practically everything.

Correcting my own mistakes

I was riding a few weeks ago and realized that I was pretty much solely focused on the performance of my horse. At some level I was aware of my own position and balance and what effect that is having on my horse but it dawned on me that I could use more focus on correcting my own bad riding habits and at the forefront of hhat list would be balance and timing (of cues and the release). As far as riding, we all know the common advice....... "head up", "heels down", "put a slight arch to your back", "push your butt into the seat", "heels aligned with your hip and shoulder", "put a little more weight into your stirrups", "quit leaning to the inside when you ride circles", "quit leaning to the outside when you ride circles",...or what I was always told "you look like a monkey riding a donkey". All good things.

Years ago, maybe even 10-12 years ago, I had a noted dressage competitor come down to my arena and watch me ride and offer observations. She pretty much gave me what I knew to be my bad habit of riding too much forward as my shoulders were not really over may hips but more to my thighs. Some of that is correctable with your heels down or at least on the same plane as your toes, but when your toes start dipping down too much it places your body weight forward, hence the shoulders past your centerline. But it certainly helped to have someone coach me and (near continuously) tell me shoulders back, butt in seat and heels down. There was a time when my ego wouldn't have allowed any consideration of those type of observations.

But lets not forget about timing. Oh so important. With bad timing we can prevent the horse from learning, frustrating us and well as the horse. I hate to think of myself as the rider who asks, asks, aks and never gives, gives, gives. So along with focusing on my seat and correcting those bad habits, but I am also working on looking for that slightest movement or understanding the horse presents and give him a release. And upon that release be sure to give him a pause as well, so what I am asking doesn't run right into other asks and masking the release.

Most people know or are aware of what I wrote above. If this helps someone, then great. But to be sure I am writing this for myself primarily. So after going a couple months in the late part of last year without throwing a leg over a horse, I made it a goal to make sure every ride is as accurate as I can be with my position and balance. The horses have enough to do without trying to compensate for me.

The Time, Place and Reasons for Lunging

I received two questions these past couple weeks relating to lunging. Kathy wrote "Do you still make lunge lines? I have been using what I think is a dressage lunge line that is flat just kind of difficult to hold onto when I lunge my horse so I'm looking for another rope type lunge line". The second question was when MK asked "where does lunging fit in to my ground work and how often do or should I lunge a horse?"

First of all. Let's settle on the term "Lunging". Most people would think of lunging is having a horse on the end of a line and driving it in circles, such as in a round pen. No, I do not make lunge lines, which I often called driving lines, anymore. Other places are offering these tools which are better quality than I can make and well worth the cost. Craig Cameron offers a pair of 25 foot driving lines, here is the link: https://www.craigcameronstore.com/product24.html

A person could use one of these driving lines if they wanted to conventionally lunge a horse on the end of the a long line. Yet, you would still have two driving lines in case you wanted to ground drive a horse. Ground driving a horse and lunging a horse which would see about the same amount of use, pretty much minimal, in preparing a horse. But they are good tools to have on hand and if you work with a lot of horses, maybe they get used. I'll address that further.

My reasoning on Lunging Initially, lunging a very green or even unhandled horse, is something I'll do and find useful to me. However, sometimes depending on the horse's energy and anxiety, I'll just let them loose in a round pen and allow them to trot or canter circles to get used to me. Periodically, I'll get in front of the horse and turn them in the other direction, which usually results in a horse turn away me from putting his butt to me. I accept that for the first session. I work to get the horse stopping and facing up, but many times they won't be faced upped with both eyes on me. Sometimes it'll just be a eye but you can tell from the demeanor that curiosity is beginning to replace anxiety or fear. I'll often walk in and get a touch on the horse then back away. I may move the horse around again, or re-approach and tie a long line (22 to 25 foot driving line) to the halter - I used rope halters with tied on 12 to 14 foot lead ropes so I simply untie the lead to tie on the long line. Then I'll drive the horse and use the long line, which gives me leverage and safety, to stop and give to pressure, pulling them to a turn to face me up. These pulls are just pulls and not jerks. I'll let the long line get taunt then pull. If everything goes well, that may be the last time I use a long line. I'll switch back to a 12-14 foot lead rope and do much the same as the horse gets more comfortable with being on the end of a line, more comfortable with me close to him and starting to understand giving to pressure of me pulling it to a stop and facing up.

On the 12-14 foot lead rope as I'm asking them to stop, and turn to face up, I am asking the horse to untrack (sometimes called disengage) his back end by stepping underneath himself with the inside hind foot and over (in front of) the outside hind foot. I'll do this on a green horse until there is progress with the horse giving to pressure on the lead line to stop and face up, and he untracks his back end. Progress will be reflected with the horse being less bracy on the lead line, and the head not flying up in reaction to the pressure. I work to ask him to stop and face up with diminishing pressure to match his understanding of what I'm asking. Nobody wants horse who every time a lead line of rein is picked up, the head flies up in reaction to the pressure. On older horses this is usually a reaction to feeling the pressure and expecting pain following the initial signal. This is the place to get a green horse expecting fair and soft handling which will develop into moving on a soft feel.

As the horse develops a better understanding, The lunging on a 12-14 foot lead rope becomes moving them in circles with the intent of the horse tipping his head slightly to the inside, moving on a loose lead line and putting the inside hind foot on the ground underneath himself. If the horse puts his head to the outside and straightens out (takes the slack out of) the lead line, as the lead line becomes taunt I'll bump his head back to the inside and again offer a loose lead line.

On free lunging. Once I get a saddle on a green horse, I turn them loose to move (walk, trot or even lope) circles in the round pen......whatever they need to do. Some will buck a few times then settle down to trotting. Some may buck several times around the round pen. This is normal. Big change to their lives with something strapped to their back and often creaking or slapping them some. On an interesting note, there is this where a well known horseman, who I highly respect, but I did not agree with when he said you once you turn a green horse loose with a saddle on, you have to do whatever you can to not let him buck. And he demonstrated re-directing the a colt bucking with a saddle by getting in front of him and using a flag. From my perspective, he was successful in getting the horse to change direction but not to stop bucking, and all I think he did was to raise the horse's anxiety or fear level. I just prefer to let them run around and buck. One or two turns of the round pen and they are usually done with bucking as they figure out they don't need to buck. The 2 year old sorrel horse in the photos, Zeke, was a pretty funny exception. He was a very quiet horse through ground work but once I put the saddle on the turned him loose, he ran around 6 or 8 times around the round pen bucking the whole time, then I drew him to me and he trotted up and started bucking in place. I couldn't do much for a minute or two since I was laughing so hard. So I'm getting off track here, back to free lunging.

Sometimes, after I saddle up a riding horse or even a colt who has had a few rides, I will sometimes use the round pen to let him move around warming up. In my reasoning this is halfway between the horse being left alone in his pen, and you riding him, as you have a saddle on him. but you are not tearing up any country. I have said before in other writings that if you ride a horse, it's worth it to warm him up. And while this is also warming up his mind, reminding he horse that you will soon on his back and directing him, it also allows the rider to see if there are any lameness or gait issues.

Most often on a riding horse after saddling I will direct him with the lead end of the mecate reins in circles at a walk and trot, stopping, untracking his rear end, bringing his front end over and going the other direction for the same reason's I warm a horse up. If gives a horse a chance to let some air out, and allows me to re-tighten the front cinch as it loosens just a bit as the horse's relaxes some. So I'm trying to get something out of the horse while giving something fair. I think if you aren't lunging with a purpose in mind the horse will likely figure that out and becomes distracted from you.

Lateral Flexion in a Colt's first few rides

I picked up a 2 year old sorrel gelding last year at a sale. I was really happy to have the winning bid on him, kind of surprised that he was overlooked by other bidders on the other two year olds, who all had smaller heads, small bones and feet, and narrow chests. I chose him for his wide chest, thick bone structure and big feet.

He is highly bred and I was just as happy a kid in a candy factory. Thats him at the top right photo. I was really anxious to get him going. I tried to start him a couple times but to due to more important things involving my late wife this past summer, fall and even winter, he sat neglected until recently. So now he is coming three in May and I have done a decent ground work and put a few rides on him.



Before I swung a leg over, I had him following a soft feel on a lead rope in backing, coming forward, disengaging his back end, moving his front end over, coming to the fence to pick me up, going quietly through gates, untracking him with the lead around his outside rump and asking him to follow that feel through the bend. I got him pretty soft in the face, to drop his head and started him on lateral flexion which I needed for direction when I put the first ride on him and certainly for rides outside the round corral. He was fairly bracey on one side, going to his left. I thought that I would help him get a better understanding on lateral flexion once I had the first ride on him. So, I swung a leg over and moved out. 

Well, everybody has heard that horses are going to be better on one side than the other. But I have never had a horse with the difference in one side to the other, than this horse, who I named Zeke. While just sitting in the saddle and asking for him to follow a feel for lateral flexion, to his right he willingly tipped his nose then head when I asked for lateral flexion, but to the left he still had a brace and a pretty stubborn brace at that.

I was pretty surprised and his reluctance to give him his head and spent a lot of time trying to figure out the why and the how to get him better. He easily went into a nice trot and really didn't have a problem keeping the trot unlike some other young horses. When I ask a young horse to give me a trot and if he wants to stop, I don't nit pick at him, instead letting I let him settle down then asking again for the trot but Zeke was pretty good from the get go. One key is that I always asked him for wide turns in changing direction and he was good at that which did not require a lot of lateral flexion. I was riding him in snaffle bit with big slobber straps and mecate reins. All in all, I am pleased with him. Smart horse (aren't they all?), but yet the brace continued.

- click on the photo above to enlarge - 

Knowing that I couldn't just work on lateral flexion all day - it would lead to frustration for both of us - I was riding just letting him get more comfortable in what he could already do without trouble. What I found that in the trot when I ask for softness tipping his nose and head to the left, he was better and go even better. Still some brace, but again getting better. So, it kind of goes back to the old adage that you need forward momentum out of a horse in order to build an understanding. He's no exception. And he is gaining confidence with carrying me around and responding as long as I don't overload him. I make sure I quit him on something he does well and is quiet and soft about. There is SO much joy in starting a young green horse. I hope many of you get that chance.  

Getting on with Living

After losing my wife to cancer 5 months ago, a terrible disease that came back on her with a vengeance that took us all by surprise, and the subsequent things that accompany a loss of your spouse,....profound grief, funeral arrangements; communicating with the Army of support that surrounded her and I,....the seemingly never ending legal issues; going through property for donations; catching up all tasks left undone; and, feeling bad about the horses only getting minimal attention, I have been getting reacquainted with my horses after several months of minimal attention. I am reminded of the saying that "the outside of a horse is good for the inside of a man". Nothing could be truer.

What has helped me get through these tough times is the love of people who knew Susan, my belief that she was received by Jesus Christ on her passing, and rediscovering my love for horses. I am thankful for God to allowing me the time he has given me, the trust in me for caring for His animals and the joy I can feel riding and working with my horses.

I am often asked my people how you get through the loss of your spouse and the first word that comes to mind is gratefulness. Sounds kind of strange using that word in a place of intense grief and sorrow, but if a person isn't grateful for what they have been given, be it health, mobility, means to live comfortably, and animals to travel this journey with you, then the ungrateful person is likely not to cope very well.

So I am back to riding everyday, sometimes 2 or even 3 different horses, enjoying every understanding the horses' have, even if it is preceded by days of not getting it. Enjoying learning, relearning even if it's my riding and understandings that need to be fixed.

Be thankful and find joy in your daily life. There are so many who are in such a dark place, where the finding or rediscovering of joy is near impossible for them. I am incredibly thankful I am not one of them. Safe Journey with your horses!

Giving Thanks

I hope everyone had a good Thanksgivng and was able to spend with those people in your life that are important to you, be it family and/or friends.

Despite losing my wife 5 weeks ago, who I miss every minute of the day, I still find Joy in the day's blessings, from sun up through sun set, and am grateful for my horses who are healthy and sound, my Anatolian Shepard dog Buck who likes to lick the horses on their noses and chases coyotes to the fenceline. I am also blessed to have some awesome family and friends who check on me from time to time. I would suggest to anyone who feels down this holiday season, or frankly anytime during the year, just to concentrating on findings those blessings spread throughout the day and being grateful to having them. It'll also do your soul good to thank our Heavenly Father for those blessings.


The following words are attributable to Alan Solley paased by a pastor's wife who we used to ride with. Thanks Betty.

I asked God to take away my habit. God said, no. It is not for me to take away but for you to give up.

I asked God to heal my handicapped son. God said no. His spirit is whole, his body is only temporary.

I asked God to give me patience but God said no. Patience is a by product of tribulations. It isn’t granted, it is learned.

I asked God to give me happiness but God said no. I give you blessings. Happiness is up to you.

I asked God to spare me pain but God said no. Suffering draws you apart from worldly cares and closer to me.

I asked God to make my spirit grow but God said no. You must grow on your own but I will prune you and make you fruitful.

I asked God for all the thing that I might enjoy life but God said no. I will give you life so you may enjoy all things.

I asked God to help me love others as He has loved me. God said Now you have the idea.

The day is yours, don’t throw it away.

RIP Susan Kay Guile 1961-2024

I haven't been very active on this site for the past year or so as my wife was in her 12th year of fighting cancer. That battle ended 21 October 2024 when she passed peacefully at home. Her entire life was spent with animals. Rescuing some 70 plus dogs and cats in the last 20 years and even a few horses. Susan was a talented horsewoman. She grew up horseback riding with Charros and Escaramuzas in Del Rio, Texas. Escaramuzas are basically female Charros who ride in special side saddles executing intricate patterns in the arena wearing beautiful, colorful dresses sombreros. It's certainly something to watch. She barrel raced in local rodeos in Pennsylvania as well as doing other competitive events. She spent two years in Germany riding classical dressage from one of the last World War II era dressage masters. Then she moved to Southern California serving as a horsemanship instructor, wrangler and trail guide on a Dude Ranch near Barstow, California. There she adopted a chestnut foal named Ande (Andromeda McCue) a granddaughter of Pan McCue, who was with her for 26 years.

Moving to El Paso, Texas where I met her in 2001, Susan taught horsemanship and riding to dozens of adults and children at High Desert Riding Club at Fort Bliss, Texas one of the last of the US Army's horse stable facilities. A weekly occurrence was her riding someone's horse to get it sorted out or to trailer load a horse that the owner's couldn't. For the last 23+ years she continued to be a friend and mentor to many of her horsemanship students who would often call her for advice even up to a few weeks ago. One of those students moved to Hawaii, and who we shipped a couple of nice horses to, came to El Paso to be a 24/7 nurse to my wife in her last days. I am forever indebted to Arlene for that.

A talented artist, Susan painted mostly oil on canvas and was active in the El Paso International Museum of Art, El Paso Artists Association and local painting groups where she was celebrated for her western art featuring Cowboys and Horses, although she did other subjects as well and won awards for her work. She only painted from pictures she owned so most of her work was me and my horses which was unfortunate at some level. This is some of her work below:

I tired like hell to get her home from the hospital just as soon as I could so she could see her horses again. We did get home before she passed but she was too weak to be moved from the hospital bed we had installed at the house. Two days after she passed we put her horse Charlie down. He was 37 years old and suffering from bowed tendons, arthritis and his rapid descent mirrored Susan's. I think he knew anyway. That's him in the photo below with my wife during better days 10 years ago. Even suffering from cancer then, she never let it define her or limit her until the last couple months. She was comforting us as we cried over her.

As a testament to the life she lived, dozens of old friends and remote family members visited her both in the hospital in Houston and at our home. During the last five weeks of my wife's life, she had to have a trichotomy as the cancer had ravaged her head and neck occluding upper airway. She communicated by writing in a notebook, often drawing some funny cartoons, much at my expense. What gives me peace and comfort during these days of grief is when our Pastor asked my wife if she felt God's presence, she wrote. "He has told me that I should have faith through all tribulation and trials. If His Son could bear all his pain we could do so was well." She passed wo days later. Rest in Peace at Jesus' side Sweetie.

The Evil West Texas Goathead plant

If you live in the desert Southwest you are invariably familiar with the Goathead Plant, which is actually an obnoxious weed that grows really, really fast with minimal water. The scientific botanical name is Tribulus terrestris, which really should be Tribulus terrible as it terrorizes people and dogs on a daily basis.

There is a reason that one of it's nick names is devil's thorn as it's fruit - more like a booby trap - bears two or more painfully sharp spines. Even with leather soled western boots, they find a way to stick to the boots so you bring them inside your house where they fall off in strategic pathways and you find them when you walking bare foot. Even the most Christian among us will utter a few select cuss words when stepping on one of these caltrop shaped "fruits". Have you ever watched someone have a big bore needle and syringe driven through their back into a lung to remove fluid? The cussing that ensues is nothing like what emits from deep within the vocal bowels of someone who has deeply and fully onto a Goathead with their bare feet.

While I don't use Glyphosate chemical weed spray like Roundup anymore, as I have seen too many cancer warning television commercials, I do use about every other method to get rid of these evil spawns of Satan. I've spread salt; tried propane burners; employed battery powered and electric weed eaters; used the big rake on my John Deere tractor - and No, I don't look sexy on my tractor, just pissed off. I have tried dragging a weighted and spiked grate with a truck; used all manner of manual tools such as garden hoes, shovels, etc......the best manual tool I have found is a type of garden hoe but with a stirrup resembling working end that has a sharpened edge that cuts the roots off below the ground, but your arms go numb after awhile.

Pulling those weeds by hand is far and away the best method of ridding these good will robbing weeds for a decent length of time, but who among us has a strong enough back for several days of that kind of soul crushing work over acres of goat heads? But you have to do something as they can spread fast and even grow 10 feet in diameter. Anxiety and the countdown clock begins when you see small yellow flowers blooming as the rapid growth and release of the caltrop shaped spikes is imminent. Some people call these things burrs, but that does not do justice to the pure evilness of them.

I don't know how these things got started growing on this earth, but I'm leaving room in my thoughts that they may have been brought here by aliens....or just maybe demons brought them up from the underworld. I pulled up several of them this morning that grew up seemingly over night next to one of my stock tanks. I intended to come back in 30 minutes or so with a bucket to collect them for the dumpster. As I approached the area of pulled Goatheads, I could have swore I saw one of the pulled weeds, with an unusually long tap root, moving. There was absolutely no wind, so I did a double take and looked again, and I believe that the tap root was moving trying to dig it's way back into the ground where it could grow anew, and again sprout those pain causing spikes to terrorize dogs and people. Right now I'm on hold with the local US Air Force base asking how a citizen in moderately good standing can order a napalm strike. If anyone has a better idea, please contact me.

National Day of the Cowboy 2024 - 20 Year Anniversary

Today, 27 July 2024, marks the 20th anniversary of the annual National Day of the Cowboy. While many Americans think of Cowboys as what they see on television, or even maybe the hit series 'Yellowstone', nothing the film media can produce does justice to the hard working men and women who raise, protect, produce and live to work with livestock and in the best of times, do it horseback.

Cowboys and Cowgirls are much more than that trading an easier life with chances of financial security for the hard work and freedom of doing hard work over long hours. Its about getting the job done and doing it right even when no one is watching. A good snapshot into Cowboying and the work ethic they live, albeit not much on horseback, is the way these men and women risked their lives to protect cattle, other livestock and facilities in the threat of the Texas Panhandle fires. Western Horseman Magazine lines out one such example in the July 2024 issue in the article 'From the Flames' with the Abraham family and the Mendota Ranch during the Smokehouse Creek Fire.

Go to their website for more information on The National Day of the Cowboy. This organization works hard to keep the Cowboy spirit alive and in the hearts of Americans, including working with State Legislatures to adopt 27 July as the National Day and partnering with the famed Henry Repeating Rifles to produce commemorative edition rifles for fund raising.

Keeping a horse straight or changing his mind

25 years ago I was discussing with another what we really needed in a horse and I remember saying something to the effect that I really valued straightness when moving forward....I needed a horse to move out on a fast walk or trot going forward and straight. These days I'd answer differently. I value softness and response and tend to think more about straightness as balance. Anyway, that memory popped up when a gent asked me about keeping a horse going in a straight line when walking. He said that half the time his horse is looking left or right at anything or nothing and end up moving in a serpentine all the time. Of course, if a horse turns his head and neck so much to one side it can have the tendency for that horse to short stride the side he is looking to as he ends up tightening his neck and shoulder. In fact, some riders when asking for a lead departure or doing lead changes will tip the horse's head to the side opposite the front foot they want to extend. Anyway, I said I would address what I thought about this and for what it is worth, here it is, but this is really not about straightness,...it's about  changing a thought in your horse.

It can be really annoying when riding a horse at a walk and the horse bends his head and neck either left or right so both eyes are looking in that direction. We all know the vision horse's have, around 340 degrees if I remember correctly, but anyway they have a wide range of vision with one eye. Much like when a horse raises his head at something, to determine if it's a threat or not, so they can get elevation and look straight out the middle of the eye, so they will also turn their heads left or right so they can put two eyes on something. If they turn their heads too much left or right they bend their necks enough that affects their shoulders, balance and foot falls. Rider's end up pulling on the reins opposite the horse's head turning to get their heads back straight. That seems to be the 'go to' tool a lot of rider's have. But it can worry a horse, all this nit picking. 

I try not to make a felony if my horse's look left or right for a second or two then brings their heads back straight - they are naturally more comfortable with their heads straight and will usually get there on their own, but again there is the balance aspect, and the rider should be able to keep the horse between his legs and reins. But if they don't get their head back straight quickly, instead of pulling their head straight with the opposite reins (I used to do a lot of that) I do two other things which are not physically or manually putting them back into position, but rather trying to get his mind back to thinking straight. I kind of think of it as the age old human trick or sneaking up on someone's right side then tapping their left shoulder to get them to look left.

If the rider is in contact with the bit or hackamore, or riding in a loose reins (preferably), the rider can simply put a feel, meaning a light bump or vibration in the opposite rein to get the horse thinking opposite of where he is looking. One way to do this is to slightly cant the wrists outside or down, or briefly close the last two fingers of the rein hand opposite of where the horse is looking. Not too long ago, I wrote a response to a reader who was asking how to correct a horse who was always looking to spook,....just waiting for something to jump out at him. And I replied much to the same thing, to get the horse's mind on something else such as asking for softness or vertical flexion. All the same idea, just change his mind, change what he is thinking about for a brief second or two. Then you'll likely have to repeat and repeat.  But this is subtle and doesn't wear you or your horse out.

Another thing to try, and you can try this just sitting on your horse, is to apply just as small amount of leg pressure as you can get away with to get the horse's opposite ear tipping to that side to correct. I am going to try and illustrate that in the series of photos below. Again, you need to use as little pressure as possible to get his ear to tip to show he is thinking about that side and good timing to release any pressure as he is thinking about or beginning to tip his ear, or he may even move his nose to that side.

photo below: As I am applying just a bit of pressure to my horse's barrel on the right side his ear begins to tip to the right. As soon as I see him begin to think about tipping his ear or beginning to tip (or turn it if you prefer) I'll release my light touch on his barrel. I tend to use my calf, but you could use the inside of the heel of your boot or touching them with your spur (and I mean just touching them). You may get a bigger response of using your spur though.

photo below: You can see my horse follow his ear with his head, but by the time he is actually beginning to move his head I have already released the pressure, but he continues to follow through with his thought.

photos below: Same deal on my horse, just to the left side.  So the next time you ride your horse, try this out and see just how light of pressure you can use to get your horse to change his mind.   

The Power of Petting Horses

I recently had a discussion with a lady who asked me if I thought petting and rubbing horse would create a pushy, spoiled horse. She told me people at her barn warned her about that would give her horse bad manners. Over the years I come to believe that men, for the most part, are really much more likely not to be as hands on petting and rubbing horses as women are. Men make not have that type of contact with a horse foremost in their mind, or may think that's it's not very manly or such. I don't. In fact, I get a lot of ribbing like "you sure do like petting and rubbing your horses." But as far as petting and rubbing on your horses, I believe it's much in how you do it. It's like riding with spurs. If you use spurs judiciously and softly, they can help you and the horse, but used wrong, just to gouge or punish the horse, then you and your methods are going to be detrimental. Same as petting on your horse - do it in a manner that encourages pushiness is not good and getting the horse's head where it can smack you could be dangerous.

There is a secret, really several, on petting and rubbing horses,  but it basically come down to, yes it can help calm and horse, and 2 - no amount of petting will replace getting a horse to understand what you are asking, or what most people would say, training a horse. Two weeks ago, I brought home a 2 year old gelding from a horse auction. As you can imagine, he was very nervous being trailered to a new home absent of the other 2 year old geldings who had been his paddock mates for his young lifetime. Once I got him in his new pen and before I took the halter off, I rubbed on his nose and cheeks until his demeanor changed just a bit and I got his head to soften. It was just replacing his anxiety with some comfort, just changing his perspective for a bit.  And his first inkling that I was there to take care of him and he can trust me.  

Another time I was in the arena judging an event when a man rode his horse in to make his run. This horse, being in place without the support of the other horses, became very scared and would not continue move forward. After a few minutes, which probably seemed like an hour to the rider, the rider said he was going to dismount and lead the horse out. I asked the rider to wait a minute, then I approached the horse and petted on him stroking his nose then putting a hand on his poll and hand on his nose and getting him to soften a bit. After a short time, I told the rider, when I walk away he may follow, and if so, just give him his head and let him follow me. So I walked away and that horse followed me from one obstacle to another. I think I changed his thinking from being troubled with being by himself without his buddies to liking what I had to offer him and wanting to buddy up with me. It did not change his perspective on being by himself from here on out, it just was one small step in the process of letting him accept new things.

Like the 2 year old gelding I just brought home and the horse I described above, this is one of the first things I'll do with a horse to introduce softness in their head and neck. It's hard to do when they are scared and focused on the new environment or situation, but it can help get a change in the horse. But between rubbing and petting on their nose, around the eye socket and poll, I'll stop with one hand on their nose and the other on their poll and put just a bit of pressure until they drop their head. I always have a hand in position to block and discourage movement that is pushy or could be dangerous.


In the beginning, I'm just looking for the head to come down a bit. It may come down slowly and they may be bracy at first, but in just a few times that improves much. And like I said, in between the asking for softness, I do the rubbing and petting. Again, this is where you can encourage or preempt pushiness. A horse will likely turn his head towards you and you need to be prepared to block that. You want your hands and forearms in a position where you can block that. So one or both hands and forearms are always between your face and the horse. This is especially true if your horse likes to put his lips on you, nibble or even bite you. And I told MH that while it feels good to us to pet and rub on a horse, our enjoyment can't be the primary purpose.....it has to be good for the horse and used to relax the horse and change his thinking to create a window for learning. You can feel that change when the tension or rigidness goes out of them....that's the time to get out of there, before they get bracy.

I remember a very well known and universally respected horse trainer who said never rub or pet on your horse while they are feeding. I disagreed then and now, with the caveat that it's how you go about doing it. While a green or new horse is relaxed and feeding, I'll use that time to touch and rub him to see if he has any trouble areas. Sometimes a horse will pull his head up, turn and look at me, but they rapidly go back to their feed. By the time I pull that horse to do ground work or saddle him, he has already been touched about everywhere.

The often repeated saying. “There’s something about the outside of a horse that is good for the inside of a man”, which has been attributed to various sources, including Winston Churchill and Ronald Reagan, to me isn't necessarily limited to riding a horse. The feeling we get, and especially the joy that people new to horses get, is just good for our souls. When riding back from open country and crossing a road to see a vehicle stop and people watch me, I never hesitate to ride over to them and have a chat which almost always results in the people getting out to pet my horse. One of my favorite stories was when I saw a car stopped and rode up to find a lady, probably in her late 30's, with her elderly mother to had Alzheimer's in the front seat. She said she was just driving her mother around to change her routine and decided to drive into the country. Her mother was wheel chair bound so she couldn't get her out of the car on the shoulder of the highway, so I asked her to roll down her window. I rode around to the passenger side and had my horse stick his nose into the car. I'll always remember the look of joy of that elderly women's face as she raised a hand an touched my horse's nose.

So yes, petting and rubbing on horse's is good for us and it can be good for the horse. Make it so.

Tying Up Young Horses

Sometimes people will contact me and ask about the Functional Tie Rings, sometimes just to make sure they are still available or they are skeptical about ordering on line. Having been scammed before, I get it, and I always enjoy those conversations anyway. I always follow up a phone call with a email to lessen the chance of our conversation being taken out context, especially when it comes to using a Tie Ring or addressing other issues with horses. So in that vein I am including most of an e-mail response I sent to a lady named Colleen who was asking "when is it appropriate agewise to use a Tie Ring on a horse?" Apparently she was told that it is generally okay to start tying up young horses so they can get used to stand being tied. And although she has a Clinton Anderson tie ring, she has not used it yet nor does she know anybody in her circle who uses tie rings. The horse in the photo at right is tied using a Functional Tie Ring, but for the first 6 months or so of saddling him, I did not tie him at all, instead I would lay the lead rope over my arm or simply lay it on the ground as in ground tying. I highy valye a horsee that is comfortable at ground tying so I work at this. So bottom line is that I would highly suggest never saddling a green horse when he is tied.

Unfortunately it's pretty routine to see tying mistakes. Some of the common one's are: hard tying to non-anchored points like temporary panel fencing; hard typing without a quick release; and, hard tying horse's who have never been tied much nor stand tied well - and this can be a tragic mistake when a young horse's seeming calmness belies his lack of experience. I have seen or know about several young horse's that were hard tied and pulled back flipping over or falling and injuring themselves badly.

And I can't talk about tying horses without this story. I was doing a demonstration and clinic a few years ago at an indoor arena. I entered the arena and hard tied my horse (with a quick release) to the permanent rail fencing. He was the only horse in the arena. Shortly, a rider attending the clinic entered and tied her mare up just feet away next to my gelding despite having plenty of room to tie elsewhere. Her mare started turning her butt towards and trying to kick my horse. The rider returned to move her horse but ended up tying the mare to a long hinged gate on wheels. Her horse started pulling back and pulling the gate towards herself. The rider got in between the gate and her horse and every time she reached for her horse, the horse would pull back and slam her with the gate knocking her down. This happened a couple times until she was able to get to the side of her horse's head. Anyway, could have ended up with more than just embarrassment.

It's not the age of a horse that dictates when they are ready to be tied, either hard tied or using a tie ring, but their ability to understand coming off of pressure. When a horse pulls back, or even when we pull on a horse from the front, the biggest part of that pressure they feel is from the halter (rope or web halter) on their poll - on the neck behind the ears. Again your horse needs to come off of pressure from the halter before you tie him up, so at a minimum this would be if you pull the lead rope taunt and the horse changes his body weight forward or takes a step forward towards you, to relieve the pressure. I'd like them even much better than this, so when they feel that pressure it's always a step forward to obtain their own release. And even then I like to use a Functional Tie Ring for weeks or months before I start hard tying.

If you are beginning to lead your horse and you have to bump on the lead rope until he starts moving forward, he is not giving to pressure very well and you need to do more work on getting him to follow the feel of the lead rope willingly and in a timely manner. Sure, in the beginning of ground work on a green horse you will likely have to bump him some to follow the feel, but you don't start right off bumping him. Instead, you would draw a loose lead rope taunt slowly and allow a chance for the horse to understand before you start bumping him.

The Clinton Anderson Tie Ring, previously known as the Blocker Tie Ring will work just fine. Just remember the hinged center bar falls away from you. If you insert the lead rope with the hinged bar rotating towards you then push the bar up to the magnetic lock, a small amount of pressure on the lead rope by the horse will pull the hinged bar down and the horse is loose. Should not be a problem to remember to use it correctly and with any tie ring you have to be concerned of where your fingers are if the horse pulls back when you are securing the lead rope! I know two people who have lost the tip of a finger tying a horse and having the horse pull back. One of them owned up to not paying attention, the other guy blamed a pretty girl diverting his attention. The results were the same, loss of a tip of a finger and it could have been the good finger that you use to clean your ears out with.

The sequence of photos above (click on the photo to enlarge) show: Figure 1 - Normal hookup of the lead rope using the Functional Tie Ring. This allows for the rope to feed through the tie ting if or when the horse pulls back. The lead rope I am using in the photo is a Double Diamond standard lead rope and it will start moving through the tie ring around 15-18 pounds of pressure. Figure 2 - the arrows depict pulling the bite of the lead rope that is through the tie ring around the bottom of the tie ring which creates a girth hitch and a hard tie. This is wrong if your intention is to tie a young horse or any horse who has pull back issues. Figure 3 - using a girth hitch on the lead rope with a tie ring, again, creates a hard tie. Make sure if you use it this way that your horse is good about being hard tied.