Anxious Horse - Looking to Spook

I received this question via e-mail and it is something that everyone of us has likely experienced. "Hello, I am riding a 6 year old mare, she is supposedly half Quarterhorse and half Tennesse Walker. She was someone's trail horse and ridden for a couple years before I bought her. She is very gentle and comfortable to ride, but she has a habit where  she looks left then right seemingly waiting for something to scare her. When there is a noise or something that does  scare her, she will flinch or take a quick step away, never jumping or really spooking but these rides are becoming tedious where I don't enjoy them. I thought if I rode her enough, the "wet saddle blankets make good horses theroy" she would come around but it isn't getting any better. Do you have any insight on this problem or what is going on? Thank you in advance, Blessings, Myra."

Momentarily, or for longer than a moment, a horse's fear or anxiety can take over where their mind is away from the rider. This is not an intentional deal of ignoring the rider,    it is just a simple instinctive reaction by the horse. You have to get back into their mind and you do so by directing them. Directing the horse, or what some would call putting them to work or moving their feet, usually brings them mentally back to the rider. You could think of it as distracting the horse from the fear stimulus by asking them to do something.

When faced with anxiety or fear, a horse's head will come up so they get elevation for sight and can look directly out the center of the eye. One of things I do when my horses mentally stray from me is to ask them to soften at the poll (the portion of the neck just behind the ears where the Atlas and Axis vertebrae are). 

 Notes on softness: I begin to build this softness in my horses from the first handling where I can use my hand on the poll to ask them to drop their head and I use a verbal command of 'drop your head', and getting the same with a hand on their halter or bridle, or even a loose lead line. I look to get their poll on or close to a level equal to the withers with their nose vertical. This is referred to as vertical flexion. In the beginning, you'll have to apply some pressure, not a lot of pressure but really a sugestion, but soon just a touch (think an ounce of pressure) will do it and even the voice command will usually work if the horse isn't distracted. You are going to need this good on a horse in order to get him collected and better balanced later on. IA lack of balance is really apparent when backing a horse if the horse's head is up, his back is hollowed out, so when the horse moves back he is pushing and falling with the front end. It's an ugly back to be frank. When the horse is soft, head down, his back is more rounded where he can back with the back end engaged and with the some of the weight taken off the front end, he can step with the front feet as opposed to pushing and dragging them.

Back to ready to spook question,...when in the saddle and my horse starts to tune me out, I can use alternating pressure (sometimes very slight and sometimes more of a short bumping) on the reins to signal an ask for softness. Depending on how far along the horse is, the dropping of the head and the nose going more vertical, may last just a second. Or if the horse is well along in training he may hold that for several strides, in any case once you release and his head comes back up you can ask him for softness again. This works pretty well to get the horse mentally back to you.

Yet another way I would approach getting the horse back to me with his mind is to move the feet. I generally don't back a horse when he is looking for sonething to spook on, like Myra describes in her question. But I have before, and when I do I ask for a halt followed by a step backwards. Then I ask for a step forward and a halt, then before the horse can mentally disengage, ask for two steps forward. However, usually I try to get his mind back when moving the feet by asking for a short leg yield to one side then the other, or if the horse is further along, maybe a shoulder in movement followed by a reach with his inside front foot to get back straight on the line of travel.

Sometimes a horse can be distracted by things that normally don't bring up his anxiety like when he is looking to spook. This could be other horses in a distant pen, human activity, or whatever. So another thing I do is to stop my horse, bring the front end over 45 to 90 degrees then jump out to a trot or canter so a few strides, then stop, back several steps, bring the front end over in the oppisite direction and jump out to a trot or canter and repeat. This serves pretty well to get a horse mind back to you. In any event, when the horse begins to get nervous, looking for a threat and looks like they are about to spook, that fear is coming between you as a the leader and the horse. You have to get their mind back to you.

Is the Anticipating Horse just an Anxious Horse?

The quick answer is 'sometimes'. Melanie wrote to ask about her horse anticipating. "Hello, I read your article about the horse anticipating turning at the fence. What I got out of it was to mix things up so the horse does not know when you will ask her to turn and that is keeping her acutely listening to you. My mare does something different where we try to open a gate and she wants to push through it. One time I fumbled the latch and she thought the gate was opening and pushed my leg into the gate. When I am riding her she is fine but going through the gate she is a mess anticipating. She sometimes anticipates other things like taking her halter off and tries to pull her head away thinking the halter is unbuckled. When I correct her she is good but I just don't know what to make out it and wondering what you think of this."

I think we're all tying to accomplish the same thing, getting our horse's responding to cues and not what they think is going to happen nor want to happen. The term 'anticipation' may not be the best term, but we can all understand it. Sometimes a horse may prepare to turn or actually turn before you ask as it gets anxious, such as riding toward a obstacle like a fence. But I am leaning towards the view that true anticipation may be rarer than a horse just being anxious.

I would lead the horse, in hand, through the gate until it walks calmly through. Then I would send the horse through the gate until it does so at a calm walk. I would hesitate after opening the gate, for varying periods of time - maybe 5 seconds to 15 seconds - before asking either. You could also walk up to the gate open it, wait on the horse to just be calm, feet not moving - maybe rub her - then close the gate and go someplace else.

Another note on sending horses through a gate - I like to have the horse go through the gate then disengage his back end away from me so he ends up facing me. It's easier to get him good at this without the gate, so that when he does go through a gate and feels the lead rope he'll his rear end away to face you. In the beginning you'll likely have to tip his head to you, so its easier for him to disengage his back end. But given the chance horse's will respond to a lighter feel on the lead rope and soon you can send him and bend him with a loose lead rope.

On horseback I would continue the same thing. When you open the gate tip her head the other way - away from the gate - slightly, and get her to stand content (see photo above). You could close the gate ride away and do it all over again. Then you could do it with her head tipped towards the open gate (see photo below), but she only moves through the gate when you cue her and then at a calm walk. She will likely move at a fast walk or otherwise show some nervousness, so be prepared to do this again several times. This is well worth the time as going through the gate can be dangerous - my left knee will attest to that.

One time I was in a ranching sorting competition and this young man had a horse who refused to go through the gate. A couple guys on the ground crew used a lariat across the butt of the horse to get him to move into the sorting pen. That didn't do the horse, nor rider any good.  The horse remained nervous and it didn't help that the cattle were sour Corrientes pushing on him. When the young man came out of the pen, I worked with him and his horse sending him in a circle while getting closer and closer to a panel fence, then I sent it back and forth between me and the fence, and fairly soon the horse was moving between me and the fence with just enough room to get by. On his next turn in the sorting pens, the rider was ale to ride his horse through the gate without much problem. On some occasions, if I am leading a horse to and through a gate and they turns sideways and balk, I'll do what I just described and its seems to make them better at being close to fences and going through gates.

As for putting the halter and and off. I have seen too many horses bolt as soon as that halter is loose. I have also seen a woman get pulled off her feet and drug a short ways after getting her hand stuck in the halter and the horse thought he was free. I ask my horses to get soft - get their nose vertical to the ground, so the halter nose band just falls off.  And it's not a bad idea to get the horse's nose tipped just a bit towards you. That is what I would do on a horse who doesn't yet have good manners. But asking the horse to get soft when un-haltering is not just an exercise in getting the horse to drop his head then pulling it back up. You would want the horse to stay soft and not put pressure on the halter as it falls off his nose. You arm and hand are likely still over the horse's neck as the halter nose band falls off - good time to give the horse a short rub, then walk away.

Another Anxious, Buddy Sour Horse

A anonymous reader left a new comment and question on a previous post - 'Anxious, Buddy Sour Horse': "I'm aware of all the exercises that can be used to cure a buddy sour horse. However, my 7 yr old gelding has gotten progressively worse and literally throws a fit. He will spin and jump with no warning when his current buddy is too far and has dumped me. Yesterday, he started running backward, got off balance and landed on his side with me still in saddle. Does anyone think he can be cured?"

I wouldn't give up on this horse yet. A 7 year old horse is still pretty young. In his point of view, he is not wrong trying to stay with the herd. The solution is to replace that safeness of the herd with safeness in being with you. I guess you would call it trust. He has to come to the understanding that being with you is as safe or safer as being with the herd, so you have to be his leader. I don't think that's something you achieve easy, nor once you do acheive a measure it, does it stays forever without being constantly re-inforced.

On some horses you may be able to achieve this with much less work than others but it's likely that riding or working once a week is going to get there, unless you willing to take years. It's also as likely that the buddy sour horse has some other issues like not respecting your space, maybe pushy to get at feed, not being able to stand still whether tied, or in hand at the end of a lead rope. Probably doesn't lead well,.....and maybe when in an arena the horse is anticipating at the gate - to name a few. So I think solving or correcting the horse in these other problems, always giving him a fair deal out of it, will help establish your leadership and building that trust.  I can't help but thinking that ground training is one of the most neglected aspects of horse training.  I would not take a horse out on the trail that does what you describe without a lot more ground work. 

So a badly buddy sour horse, I would think that taking him out on the trail with other horses and correcting his buddy sourness may not be starting from the beginning, and can even make it worse. Consider that you are riding with a group and your horse is more concenrned with staying with his buddies rather than listening to your cues. So you fall back aways as you double him, or trot circles then you trot your horse to catch up to the group, the horse is probably pushing against the bit, not rating well and ends up justifing his anxiety being away from the herd since he is working when away form the herd and trotting back to the herd is re-inforcing the need to hurry up and catch for safety.

Maybe part of the solution is working him on correcting the bad habits, in a round pen or an arena, getting him to move his feet when asked, getting him to stand still when asked. When around other horses close to the barn or in an arena I would try working him in close proximity to the herd and giving him a rest at the farthest point from the herd. This is similar to correcting the horse that anticipates at the gate. We've all seen or ridden a horse that wants to slow down, or in worse cases, drifts over to the gate. What do we do? We begin by being ready to keep him from breaking down (slowing his gait) at the gate, making that end of the arena work for him and giving him a rest at the far end of the arena away from the gate. But I think the key is riding this buddy sour horse quite a bit - like the old saying goes "wet saddle blankets make a broke horse".