Remedies for a Horse that Pulls Back

I received this reader question from Amanda via e-mail....."Hi - Would appreciate suggestions for 12 yr old gelding that will not tie. It is not a fear issue and he does not paw or dig. He might stay tied 10 minutes, or an hour, but when he decides he wants to leave, he just leans back and breaks the tie and walks away. He will walk right up to me and allow himself to be caught. Previous owner tried using a Blocker Tie Ring and worked on the problem for 2 months, then sold him to me. Other than this he is a *great* horse and does not have any other issues. Thanks."

Amanda, your 12 year old Gelding knows he can pull back and break the halter or tie at will. He has to learn that he can't break it to stop this problem. I don't know if you are using a rope halter, but a good rope halter and lead line is harder to break than a conventional lead line with a snap. Additionally, the rope halter, due to it's smaller diameter strap over his poll adds more pressure there on the poll when the horse pulls back. If he pulls back, he'll get pressure in his poll - when he stops pulling back he'll learn to get a release.

In the old days we'd take a horse and tie them up tight to a snubbing post with his head higher than normal so he can't round the back, set his read end and get more leverage,..... and keep him there for hours. I don't condone this as there are better ways for a horse to learn to stand tied, and fairer ways at that.

In the video,....I know I ramble on,.... but I show the ring devices with the same principle as a Blocker tie ring so a horse can't pull back and break anything. However, you can't tie a horse and walk away with this rigging as he will pull the lead rope out of the ring,....or he will pull enough lead line through then get his front legs tangled up in the lead rope slack.

So we are back to a rope halter which I think you should try. I use nothing but Double Diamond as they are quality halters. I make my own lead lines and generally use 12 to 15 foot lengths as I use them for short lunge sessions or to sack the horse out of ropes around his feet....just a more usable length for me.



Hope this helps and safe journey.

Reader Question on Pulling Shoes in the Backcountry

I received an e-mail from Meghan who asked what would be a good tool to carry in the backcountry, where weight and space is at a premium, that she could use to pull a shoe if she needed to.

With a good knife to use as a clinch cutter, to bend the horseshoe nails straighter, and a fencing tool, I think you could do a decent job albeit not as easy as using a farrier's pull offs.

I carry a Plammer, which is a fencing tool with a hammer head. This comes in handy if I have to cut then repair a fence and pound fencing staples (U shaped nails). I have a smaller version that is 8 inches long and fits in my saddle bags. The jaws open wide enough so I can grab a horseshoe and twist off once I get the nails un-clinched. The idea is to minimize hoof wall damage by straightening the nails first.

I'll place the blade of the knife under the clinched nail then rap sharply with the plammer. Once I get all the nails un-clinched, I'll use the plammer fencing jaws to grab the horseshoe and twist off.

This will be tougher if your shoer gouge the hoof and clinched the nails tightly into the gouge, or if the shoes have been on for awhile and make the nail end hard to get to. My shoer uses toe or bar clips on the shoes which makes it harder to twist off, but the plus side is that I have had only two loose shoes with this shoer and neither were his fault.

By the way, I use Diamond Bar V Horseshoeing out of Silver City, New Mexico. Best shoer I've ever had.

I suggest the next time you have your horses shod, ask your shoer about taking off a loose shoe or even re-nailing when in the back country. I carry a few extra nails for this purpose - never used them - and would think the knurled head of the Plammer may make it difficult to drive a nail straight.

I have also used just my knife and a rock to un-clinch nails then wedge the knife underneath the shoe to lever it off. It was on a buddy of mine's horse and I did not like doing it this way, that's partly why I carry a Plammer now.

Other than that Meghan, the only other solution I can think about it cutting down a long handled pull offs or finding a smaller version. But the Plammer has more uses than just pull offs so I think you'll see the advantage. Safe Journey.

Help on Using Split Reins

I received a reader question many weeks ago that I am now just getting to,...the reader asked about how to hold and use split reins.

Boy, I'm not exactly the right person to ask that of. I know how most people use split reins and I'll start with that, but I use split reins a little different.

With split reins,....that is two distinct separate pieces of rein that connect to the bit or hackamore, the rider can use a direct rein or an indirect rein (neck reining).

With split reins you still keep your hands in the box above and forward of the saddle horn or swell if you have one of those hornless saddles. Hey, I got nothing against hornless saddles,..hell, the old cavalry McCellan is hornless. Anyway, you hold onto your split reins with either both hands or with one hand, palms down.

With traditional split reins, usually they are crossed at the rider and the rider holds them with one hand where they cross.

I use split reins alittle different. I tie a 8 inch length of leather string around the reins about 18 inches from the end of them, to use as a slider. The excess part of the reins are drapped together over one side or the other. Normally drapped over to my right hand side, unless I'm roping then I'll flip the end of the reins over to my left hand side.

Probably not writing this well enough for you to understand so hope the video explains it better. In any event, just try to ride with as little pressure on the reins as you can. Try to be as subtle with your signals via the reins as you can. You and your horse will be much better for it. Safe Journey.