Friday, February 5, 2010

The Basics of Horse Nutrition: Evaluating Body Condition




Every horse owner should know how to gauge the condition of their horse and therefore determine if the horse is eating enough. I look at slightly different areas of the horse than some people do. I considering the age of the horse where a sway in the back and the backbone become more evident as this is normal. Roy, the horse in the picture above, is an old roping horse who is coming twenty seven years old in 2010 and is showing signs of age with a little sway in his back.

Where I look is the areas named in the picture of Roy. The sides of the Withers should not be completely boney – they should have some muscle blending into the shoulder; the Shoulder should be fairly muscular as the horse keeps most of their weight on their front end building those muscles. There should be some muscle on both sides along the length of his back – this helps somewhat protect the backbone from ill fitting saddles; the ribs (or barrel) should be meaty – don’t be alarmed if you can see feel or even see the ribs, but if the ribs are highly visible then chances are the horse is underweight; the butt on both sides of the tail head should be meaty – on some horses this is where they initially lose a lot of weight when under feed.

Some horsemen like to also use the sides of the neck (under the mane) to help determine body condition.

The recognized and accepted body condition scoring system goes like this, given consideration for the various types of conformity differences between breeds of horses:

One (Poor)- Horse is extremely emaciated (looks like a horse version of German WWII POW camp prisoner); ribs, tail head and backbone all visible. No fatty tissue can be seen or felt.

Two (Very Thin)– Horse is extremely underfed; boney areas prominent.

Three (Thin)- Some fat buildup on back; slight fat over ribs; hips apparent but appear rounded with presence of some fat and muscle.

Four (Moderately Thin)- Ribs can be seen however faintly; hip bones not apparent; butt may be scalloped (dished) but muscle and/or fat is present.

Five (Moderate)- Back is flat with no protruding backbone ridge, however age of the horse with a more readily appearing backbone may give the impression that the horse is in less condition, so consider other body parts in an overall judgement; fat around butt and butt is well rounded.

Six (Moderately Fleshy)- Fat over ribs, cannot see ribs; fat apparent on sides of withers, on shoulders and even on the neck.

Seven (Fleshy)- sometimes I call this getting “fat”; more fat on withers, shoulders, neck and butt; fat around tail head; prominent barrel giving a “peanut” profile look.

Eight (Fat)- fat apparent on legs below butt; withers very full; shoulders seemingly beginning to run or meld into the ribs (barrel); neck fat very apparent.

Nine (Extremely Fat)- Fat is bulging at all points; upper back legs may rub due to excessive fat in legs; you’ll know it when you see it.


Roy, the horse in the picture above, given consideration to his age, is what I would score as Body Condition Five – Moderate. I like to keep my horses in Condition Five, but I have to admit most of them would be judged to be Condition Six (Moderately Fleshy). Ruling out medical problems, it is an obviously problem of under feeding or bad care if your horses are in Condition One or Two. You are also not doing your horses any favors by letting them get to Condition Six and risking their health by going to Condition Seven, Eight or Nine.


What Every Horse Owner Should Know.



A horse is not only a large investment but a risky one in many cases for people who don’t know what they are getting into. Owners and prospective owners need to consider the costs after the initial purchase. A neighbor of mine bought a horse for $400. During the conversation with him I gathered he did not understand that buying the horse was the cheap part. He’s in for an education.

I told him he has many things to learn if he truly wants to be a competent horse owner and that I would help him with the basics but it is his responsibility to learn and apply those lessons,…among them:

  • Know how to be safe around a horse. Safely halter and lead a horse.


  • Basics of Horse Nutrition.

    Being able to determine the horse’s body condition.



  • Be able to pick up the horse’s feet (hooves) and clean them as well as recognizing problems in the hoof.


  • Should be able to recognize signs of common serious problems such as colic and founder and not hesitate to call a Veterinarian. In fact, have the Vet’s phone number on speed dial.


  • Know how to take the horse’s pulse, respiration rate and temperature as well how to describe the symptoms over the phone.


The owner, particularly the new and in-experienced horse owner, needs to constantly seek and gain knowledge about the horse. The list of subjects concerning horses are long, not hard to learn, just the education never stops.

Thursday, February 4, 2010

The Basics of Horse Nutrition: Understanding Hay



I don’t know how many times I have been asked questions such as…. “Just how hay do I need to feed my Horse?” …..”Could you look at my horse and tell me if I’m feeding enough?”….. I like these questions since it shows the horse owner wants to ensure he/she is taking care of their horse. I always remind these people that my answers are my opinion and if they asked several other people, they will get several different answers. The following opinion is for people who do not have their horses on pasture.

Generally, a horse currently in decent body condition needs 2% of his body weight in daily feed. That means a 1,000 lb horse needs 20 lbs of feed each day. And I’m talking hay here. There are two general types of hay: Grass Hay and Alfalfa. Grass Hay usually runs about 10—12% protein and Alfalfa Hay generally runs about 17 –23% protein depending upon what cut of the growing season it is.

Hay should make up the bulk of the horse’s daily feed. With the feeding of grains or processed and bagged horse feed, the daily requirements of hay can be reduced, however, again hay should make up the majority of the horse’s diet and most horse’s do well on hay alone providing it’s a good quality hay and must be free of mold. If it smells bad, don’t feed it!

Although thousands of horses do well on Alfalfa alone, the protein content can present problems that are somewhat avoided with a mix of grass and alfalfa or a grass only diet. There is a saying that everything a horse eats goes straight to their feet. That’s true but it goes the way of the gut and digestive tract before it gets to the feet. High levels of protein are thought to cause blockages or colic in the horse’s gut and can affect the hooves in negative manner such as leading to founder. Generally a horse that gets into grass hay storage and eats and eats and eats won’t have near the problems that the same horse would have if he got loose and overfed on alfalfa.

The more times you feed a horse a day, the better, however most horses do just fine on being fed twice a day. I feed my horses four times a day, dividing up grass and alfalfa in near equal amounts.

My reference bible on horse feed is Equine Clinical Nutrition, Feeding and Care, by Lon D. Lewis, DMV, PhD available from Amazon. I understand that this book is used as a textbook in some college equine management programs. It is worth the cost.






What We Owe Horses – Basic Needs of a Horse



I see a lot of backyard horse owners, visiting some a time or two at their request or being sent there from someone’s complaint that the horse was neglected. I hear myself repeating the same mantra over and over in regards to the basic requirements that the horse needs. It bears repeating since so many horse owners, and undoubtedly potential horse owners are still unaware of the basic requirements for a horse:


  • A safe place to keep the horse, free of sharp objects and other dangers.


  • A large enough stall for the horse to move around in. I have seen too many horses in a 10 foot by 10 foot stalls to ever want to see another. If a horse was keep in a small stall for some of the day but turned out to exercise or interact with other horses than that’s another story.


  • Overhead cover would be a good idea so the horse can get out of the rain, hail or snow and give him a dry place to lay down.


  • The stall or corral needs to be relatively clean. Manure not picked up can spread worms and bacteria.


  • The horse needs adequate feed. A starting point would be 2% of his body weight per day in hay (1,000 lb horse equals 20 lbs of good quality hay) if that horse is in decent body condition to begin with.


  • Clean water. The horse needs free access to clean water. If the water is really dirty, a horse may neglect drinking and become dehydrated which will lead to other problems, such as colic.


  • Free access to a salt or mineral block is another item I would consider a requirement.


  • Regular vaccinations, appropriately given by a Veterinarian, or someone who is skilled.


  • Regular worming. I worm four times a year as my horses are corralled or turnout with other horses who I don’t know the worming history on.


  • Regular hoof care. This means cleaning the feet (hooves) daily or near daily basis and having a skilled farrier (horsehoer) trim or shoe the horse on a routine basis. My horses are trimmed or shoed every six weeks; eight weeks in the winter time as the hooves tend not to grow so fast.



The last requirement is as important as the rest;……...the horse needs an owner who sincerely wants to give the horse a fair life. If we keep horses we owe it to them to keep educating ourselves to ensure we are competent in taking care of them.



Contact Functional Horsemanship





Purpose




The idea behind Functional Horsemanship, Helping horses by Helping People is to provide a forum for information relating to Care for the Horse not limited to but initially covering such topics as Hoof Care, Horse Supplements, Horse Feed, Training Methods and other information specifically for horse owners who do not have the ability or financial means to get information or education in any other manner, or, simply for people who wish to view information from all sources then decide on what information they may want to put in their saddlebag of knowledge.

This idea started years ago as I ran a 52 horse capacity private Horse Stables with a wide (and I mean wide!) range of knowledge or lack of knowledge demonstrated on a near hourly basis by the people boarding horses there. I served as an Army Range Rider and Law Enforcement Conservation Officer riding 1.2 million acres of mountainous and desert country bordered by cattle ranches and small horse operations. Having been called by people to look at or work with horses with problems, most of the problems I have seen are people problems resulting from their lack of knowledge and unfortunately sometimes a lack of caring.

I am also continually asked questions almost on a daily basis, from inexperienced and experienced horses owners alike, on issues such as horse health and hoof care, horse behavior problems, training, nutrition, horse feed, and trailer training to name a few. That taught me several things among them is that there are a heck of a lot of horse owners who just don’t know much about horses and are failing to educate themselves for some reason or another. But it also gave me hope that if people know better they will do better and that better is giving a horse a fair life.

There are many people, perhaps thousands, that are much more qualified to talk about Horse Training, Horse Nutrition, Hoof Care and especially Veterinarian subjects such as Diseases, Vaccines, Horse Dentistry, etc.,…… however many of these experts are outside the reach of the common horse owner. There are many owners of one and two horse operations that may have inherited horses, or whose family who has always had horses, or who are getting into horses for the first time as a hobby or sport, and a lot of these people just don’t know what they don’t know. My intent is to reach those people with the result being a safer and better relationship between the owners and their horses, and ultimately a better life for horses.

Working and riding horses is an inherently dangerous activity. We highly advise horse owners to seek hands on instruction and advice from professional trainers as well as seek a Veterinarian’s counsel on horse health issues.