More on a Horse That is Suddenly Spooky

Dinka D wrote a comment on Horses that are suddenly spooky. "I hope you don't mind me posting another question on spooky horses. I have an 8 year old Arabian who is usually bold and inquisitive out on the trail. Not much phases him, but there are times when he seems to check out mentally. I work with him on the ground and I ride him several times per week. I have noticed that he is particularly spooky in the late afternoon, both on the trail and in the sand arena. He can be downright dangerous in the arena. Last night I was forced to up my energy and ask him to gallop around on the lead line, because it was obviously what he wanted to do. His eyes were on stalks as he stared at a couple of children playing in the distance. It was just ridiculous. He worked up a lather and still wanted to spook, but I got him to calm down somewhat. I then rode him, asking for only a walk, since this was the most challenging thing for him. I managed to walk him for a good 20 minutes or more, even to relax his frame and lower his head. Yet he still kept trying to look over to the side of the arena where he obviously felt there was danger. I could not get him to focus properly or to bend his body, mainly because touching him with the lower leg set him off into a jog. Speaking of jogging, on the trail at dusk he will jig jog like an idiot. I have used different methods to cut out jigging in the past, but it seems it all goes out the window at a particular time of day. My problem is, with full time work dusk is often the only time I can ride.. and I am tired of dealing with a nervous wreck. I wonder what else I can do, besides what I've done so far."

Right off I think there are two main reasons for horses mentally checking out, demonstrated by looking away or not paying attention to the handler or rider, or not taking cues in a timely manner like they usually do. First of all in a new area, like trailering to a new arena or trail head, it would be common for many horses to be curious or outright concerned about the different environment and events around them, especially if there is lots of activity. I was riding a horse the other day who I have had on cattle many times. He was routinely drawn to a fence line with signs, where he could only see the feet and lower legs of the cows on the other side. So when loping circles closet to that fence I had to keep redirecting his head to the inside.  Second, if you are doing the same thing over and over, the horse may be getting bored. It will usually be evident as your horse will be late on cues and dull in gait and speed transitions, and turn arounds. The difference in the first and second reason is that when the horse is bored you will be able to feel and see a lack of body tension and mental tension.

With you horse having issues seemingly only in a certain time of day, like the late afternoon as you describe with the lower direct sunlight, he may have a eye condition. One of these would be Equine Recurrent Uveitis (ERU), which many people call Moon Blindness, which is an immune response type condition where the horse body's own immune cells may attack eye tissue. These attacks produce signs such as squinting, tearing, "red eye," a cloudy eye, swelling and sensitivity to the sun. Horses can get it from a bacteria infection caused by dirt or dirty water, or a viral infection, and flies can bring in a disease. And obviously any visual impairment could cause a horse to be more easily spooked.  I have an older horse, around 20, who we thought had ERU or otherwise an eye condition which clouded up his right eye and make him spooky on things to his right (blind) side. Many tubes of Opthalmalic ointment did nothing. Later I went though a bottle of Vetricyn eye ointment and ensured he always wore a fly mask when he could. Much to our surprise his condition cleared up. Much of his anxiety with things on his right side (his bad side) went away.  So I would think any eye or vision problems is something you have to look at to rule out.

Something may spook a horse at a specific location, which could have that horse looking for it to happen again until that current expectation dulls with time. I'd make it a point to set up a rest at that location.    

It can be really frustrating correcting a horse who is continually buying into to his own fear.  I would make doubly sure that my frustration is not apparent or otherwise contributing to his anxiety.  I would be inclined to do a lot of things to keep that horse focused on me and what I was asking.  I am not saying to wear him out physically - there is a perception, really a misperception, that a person can work the buck or spook out of a horse through sheer density of his workload, as you need to change his perception not get him head dropping worn out.     

But what I would do is set things up for him to think or search for the right thing.  I think the thing to do or a least to try on your Arab is to get his mind engaged.  After all we're trying to put a thinking pause before that fear reaction.  So I think it's key to give our horse's a pause to learn. An example may be when you ask for lateral flexion and when he gives it don't release. He may likely try to pull his head away, but just maintain that hold.  It may take him 5 seconds or 45 seconds but he'll look to do something else to get the release.  Since his head is bent, it is likely his move his back end away from the bent, and just as soon as he tries, give him a release, a rubbing on his neck, a 10-15 second pause to absorb that lesson before you do it again.            

If I'm doing turn arounds on the fence, after getting it right with a good effort, I may stop and let my horse rest.  I may set it up so the rest spot is the location where he has the most trouble with spooking.  If I'm loping circles and changing speeds (sitting trot to a posting faster trot) and he puts effort into doing that, again I'll stop him recognizing his effort and stop him again at the point where he has the most mental trouble at.  In the beginning he's likely to still have happy feet - showing his anxiety by moving his feet.  I would correct him immediately by directing his feet such as trotting or loping tight circles, or even backing in a circle then offer him a chance to stand again. 

I fear I haven't been much help but I really hope you can get your horse to quieter place as you have many years ahead with him.  As an Arab he is more hot blooded then say an average Quarter Horse, but I've seen too many good Arab not to know its possible.  Good luck and safe journey.      
    

My Horse Anticipates My Commands

Carolyn wrote that when she rides her horse towards the arena fence her horse most often turns before she gives him a cue. "Hi. My horse is very well behaved but he has a tendency, when I am riding towards the fence of the arena, to turn before I ask him to turn. I don't know if it's fear of being ridden into the fence, or poor eyesight, or just a lack of trust in me. It's really aggravating and I'm at a loss to correct this. Any time tested tips you may have would be appreciated. Regards, Carolyn."

Hi Carolyn. The most likely reason your horse turns before you ask him to when heading towards the fence is that he is anticipating the turn. He probably also anticipates in other ways as well. Does he always anticipate a turn toward the gate or towards other horses? A common thing that horses do is to turn towards the gate, sometimes speeding up when heading to or facing the gate, or slowing up at the gate anticipating leaving the arena or signaling their desire to get back to their pen and their buddies. So often, horses seemingly anticipating a cue is herd bound or barn sour behavior.

When riding towards the arena fence, keep your horse between your legs and you may have to have a little more contact with his mouth (riding in a bit) or on his nose (riding with a bosal) to be able to correct him anticipating a turn. Stop your horse before he gets too close to the arena fence where he wants to anticipate a turn. Then I would mix up what you do next. You can back him, turn him away from the gate, ride a circle and approach the arena fence again.

You can stop him, do a roll back, and head towards the opposite arena fence and do the same thing. You may stop him back a ways then have him depart at the trot towards the arena fence again.

I particularly like heading towards the arena fence, stopping, backing then doing a roll back toward the next fence line. Each time you should turn away from the arena barn gate, if this seems to be an issue for your horse, and each time will be turning in a different direction.

Over a short amount of time, you should be able to get closer and closer to the arena fence before he wants to turn on his own. Each time you approach the fence stop him, back him, turn him opposite the gate, do a roll back or double him before he attempts to turn on his own.  Keep him busy doing different things.  

Try doing all these things width wise and length wise in your arena. Pay attention to your horse doing those herd bound, barn sour type behavior. If you keep your horse busy enough, and you are fair about it, a lot of this behavior can be reduced or eliminated. And one more thing you may do when you end your arena training sessions, if to stop furthest away from the gate and either dismount and lead him in hand out of the arena, or from the saddle walk slowly to the gate.

I'm not such a good hand correcting this but what I would do is similar to what you would do for the barn or buddy hour horse.  Don't give him the chance to anticipate - direct him into something else. 

For the barn/gate sour horse it makes sense to make it work for him to be near the gate and give him a rest when he is furthest away from the gate. This is what you hear referred to as "making the wrong thing work and the right thing a release or a rest". Trot him in a oval or a circle near the gate, stop and back, turn away from the gate and take you horse to the far end of the arena and give him a rest.

Hope this helps Carolyn. Safe Journey to you. 

Horses with Happy Feet - Won't Stand Still

I received two recent questions on horses that can't stand still. One on a horse who won't stand for saddling and another horse who won't stand still with a rider on his back.

Joyce wrote: "Thanks for your videos and site. I have not seen a video on youtube about my problem. I have a 12 yr old mare. She will NOT stand still for saddling no matter what. She moves back and forth, side to side etc. I put the saddle on and boom it is on the ground before I can get the saddle even slightly secured. I have tried her tied and untied. I have made her move and move some more and then try it again to no avail. To saddle now, I do while she is eating her grain which is really not fixing the problem. Thank you so much. I know she has an attitude but need some ideas about this. Joyce."

I am glad you recognize the saddling while feeding your horse to get her to stand still is only treating the symptoms. And while feed issues can contribute to a horse's behavior, meaning too much feed, particularly too much high energy feed can make a horse seem kind of hyper. But your mare's issue is most like a lack of respect. No offense but she may just be a spoiled horse. This is common and not her fault. She is going to do what she thinks she needs to do.

I think you have the right idea about making her move around and I suspect you then offer her a chance to stand - which is making the wrong thing work and the right thing a rest. And while this lesson is absorbed by many horses, some take longer to learn this.

I would consider doubling down on my ground work and concentrating on helping her find respect. If you watch most trainers working with a troubled horse or a horse with some problems, you would see that horse being basically started over.....being lunged in a round pen; getting that horse to move his feet; getting that horse to focus on the human; generally making the wrong thing a bunch of work or pressure and the right thing generating an immediate release. Letting that horse stand tied and learning some patience that standing still is a good thing will most likely help as well.

KK e-mailed a request to help sort out a horse that won't stand still. "My horse, a five year old gelding, just can't stand still. He doesn't jump around, just wants to continuously move his feet. It's embarrassing when I'm with friends on horses and I have to try and control him as opposed to engaging in conversation. Do you have any ideas on how to deal with this? Thanks."

Hey KK, a five year old is still a pretty young horse especially if he has only been ridden a couple dozen times a year or so. The easy advice is that a lot of wet saddle blankets will make him a more seasoned horse and stop or lessen the moving around which is most likely a little anxiety.

But what you may do is not to try and control his movement and get him to stand still but to use that energy and have him work. In other words if he wants to move then let him move but under your direction. Have him soften his head and back a step; have him move his back end over - have him move his front end over. Side pass him a step or two in each direction. This is all good for him.

I suspect that if you do this repetitively it will most likely be good for him but help him find the rest spot when standing still when asked. Safe Journey to both KK and Joyce.

Bolting Warmblood

Auri wrote: Hi, I have a 16.3 hand Dutch Warmblood gelding with a bad habit of taking off that he learned from his previous owner (I was not aware of the problem). I have tried every form of ground training and there is some improvement but he will still take off occasionally. He is dangerous and one time left me with a broken jaw. From that time he also tore a lesion in his deep flexor tendon and is currently healing. Is there anything else I can do to help him?”

Hi Auri. I like the way you are asking if there is anything you can do to help your horse. A bolting horse can be dangerous, especially one as big as your Warmblood. You don’t say how old your Warmblood is, nor how long you have had him, nor how your jaw was broken. I am assuming that he is doing this both while you are leading him on the ground as well as in the saddle. He needs to learn that he has to be respectful of your space. I like to use a good quality rope halter, such as from Double Diamond or Craig Cameron, with a tied on lead line. This allows a quick jerk on the lead line to be transmitted and felt by the horse on his nose and somewhat on his poll. Your timing has to be right on this. Using a 12 or 14 foot lead line allows you to bring the end of the lead line with the leather popper around your body with the off hand to remind your horse to respect your space if he is leading up too close.

You had the good idea is to re-start your horse. I think this is always a good idea for new horses. Relearning ground training, teaching the horse good ground manners,.....that you are the leader and he needs to respect you. You have done this and say he still has the bolting problem. I am assuming you are riding him in a bit. Have you ruled out any teeth problems like erupting wolf teeth? Are you using too harsh of a bit? Does it seem like he bolts after fighting you or bracing against the bit? I can't help but think of a dressage rider I knew who would ride their horse on the trail, in a benign bit like a O ring snaffle, but would always be in contact that horse's mouth, causing that horse alot of anxiety since he couldn't do anything to get away from the bit pressure but to try and run away.

A horse bolting is sometimes caused by a buildup of fear until the horse thinks he has to run away. Sometimes a horse just has to bolt and run just to figure out that he doesn’t have to. I think sometimes it does more good to let them bolt, and when they want to slowdown, make them continue to run if it’s safe to do so.

If the horse is spooking (from an object) rather than bolting from pent up fear rather than a particular object, I would take him back to the object that set him off. In both situations you have to go at his pace, if you make him approach a scary object faster than he is comfortable with, or if you get onto him or try and lock him down when he bolts, in his mind his fear is justified.

Sorry I couldn't be of much help. Good luck and Safe Journey.

Horse Won't Stand Still

Sam wrote....”I have a quarter horse that I have ridden for 9 years, since he was a 2 year old. Lately I have been attending ACTHA rides. He is calm on the trail and calm during the obstacles, but impatient while waiting for the other riders to complete their obstacle. I took some criticism for circling him last weekend, when he was tossing his head, fighting me and wanted to move on. He even squealed a little. I see this as kind of a spoiled brat behavior and I am not sure how to deal with it. I admittedly did not ride him a lot this year, but he has these moods where he is impatient and might even nip at me when I am leading him. I am considering a vet workup but I think if pain were his issue he would not only act this way when standing still under saddle. Thoughts on how to deal with this?”

Hey Sam, thanks for writing,….actually a problem with the horse not standing still when asked is more common than you would think. Some times it’s feed related. Some times it’s a pain or discomfort issue with the horse relating to bad saddle fit or a physical problem with their hooves or back or instance. A vet check is a good idea, especially if you suspect something.

It is more likely to be a problem that may be alleviated with a lot of wet saddle blankets, or time in the saddle, and, standing tied for awhile to have him teach himself patience. I am not talking about using a snugging post for hours on end,….. I’m simply saying having him tied for 30 minutes is not an unreasonable way to begin and you can go from there.

He may be simply a little buddy sour thinking his herd is moving on without him. I wouldn’t let the criticism bother you. I would think the ACTHA judges are there to judge how you and your horse negotiate an obstacle and not any pre-obstacle schooling of your horse. Of course, if you are standing close to other horses and riders, it is really annoying to have your horse moving around pushing into our horses. But, circling a horse in small circles, or moving his hind end around quickly then offering him a chance to stand still (pressure and release) is a common way to handle a horse who can’t stand still.

If you don't ride him a lot, say only once a week, I think you would see a big difference in his handle by adding a couple of short sessions each week.

Backing Uphill

Kathleen wrote to me saying she was having trouble getting her horse to back up hill.

Getting a horse to back, which is really unnatural for them past a step or two, begins on the ground under halter moving to backing on level ground under a saddle. Your horse will have to do this well, moving his feet when you ask them to. Many horse back well enough but at an angle, I think because they can’t see directly behind themselves so it is natural to move a little laterally to be able to see behind and in the direction of movement.

Horses keep the majority of their weight on their front end and backing up a hill, or going down hill for that matter, will cause them to add more of their body weight to the front end. This can be aggravated by the rider placing their weight over the saddle horn or otherwise leaning forward making it hard for the horse to pickup and move their front legs.

Not being able to back well on level ground could cause a horse backing up hill to get his back legs underneath himself, not being able to move them and can lead to a horse flipping over worst case.

It would be common for the horse to turn his head and neck to try and look behind himself which will probably result in his back end moving the other direction and getting off a line perpendicular to the incline you are trying to backup. Keep the horse between your legs and control his movement side to side with leg pressure.

I think the keys to backing uphill after backing on level ground can be performed well, is for the rider to look over each shoulder making the rider lean backwards somewhat releasing some of the weight bearing on the front end. Only use rein pressure as necessary, back slow and provide the horse with a release on each step or try. It may be a good idea to get one or two steps out of your horse backing uphill, then ride forward, give him a short break then try again maybe for an additional step this time. I’d say start slow, accept your horse’s smallest try, build on that and shortly your horse will be backing uphill just fine.