Hoof Problems - White Line Disease

Received this e-mail from Karen in South Carolina, My farrier told me my Trakehner has white line disease in his left front hoof and said he would have to cut out some of the hoof. He told me it is an infection that can spread and ruin the hoof. I asked him to wait until I get a Veterinarian’s opinion on it. I have only talked to my Vet over the phone, and he has not came out yet to look at it, but he did say that my farrier’s recommendation sounded about right. I could not find anything in a couple of the equine health books I own, but I did read some article on-line about it. What do you know about white line disease? Have any of your horses had it? What treatment did you do and how did your horses respond?”

Howdy Karen, there is a common perception that Veterinarians and Farriers can’t get along when discussing hoof problems. Some people may find your Vet’s suggestions that your farrier’s recommendation to “cut out the white line disease” sounded about right. That’s probably because the Vet may defer to farrier’s on most hoof related issues, and because cutting out the hoof is the most commonly accepted procedure. My shoer tells me that there is no topical treatment, such as like we have for thrush, to get rid of the bacterial or fungal infection.

Sorry about your horse having white line disease. If you have read the on-line resources about white line, I’m am sure you have found that it is called white line disease because it appears at or near the white line that separates the hoof wall and the hoof sole and is detectable by the soft, powdery hoof wall tissue. I think the jury is still out whether it’s a fungus or a bacterial infection, but it is certain that the diseased portion has to be cut out completely and left exposed to air to be able to get rid of it. I have only seen it on two horses, both diagnosed by a farrier. In both instances, the diseased part of the hoof and some of the sole was cut away. In both cases a shoe was fitted to give the hoof better stability on the affected hoof.

In one case, a lot of hoof wall was taken out, and it took about 8 months for the hoof to grow back sound. Recently this same horse came up with a smaller case of white line disease. It came back in the same hoof and since White Line Disease is most probably e hoof but you can’t help but think the horse is picking it up tha fungus he probably picked it up in the ground where he is penned up. In the second instance, the shoer again cut out the decayed hoof wall and some of the hoof sole (laminae), then fitted a shoe with clips to help protect the hoof as it is missing some of it's hoof wall.

Reader Question on Bug Bites

Trying to help May from East Texas who has a horse with bug bites on his neck. Her other horse is not affected. Fly Spray doesn't seem to work on the affected horse. I told May what I do to treat a horse with bug bite like bumps which get irritated, scratched, then open. If bugs are attracted before then they for sure will be with an open sore.

It may not necessarily be bug bites, it could be an allergic reaction to an ingredient in the horse's feed, or any weed the horse may be able to graze on. In that case, the Vet may tell you to use Tri-Hist. If it is an allergic based reaction then ask the Vet for some feeding options as well. You may want to feed loose hay rather than tightly packed flakes to help get the dust and spoors out.

In any case a product called M-T-G, which is a sulfur - mineral oil based product, works well to sooth the irritated skin. I hose the horse off and scrap or brush the salt off his hair. I do not generally use soap before hand. I'm from the school that rarely gives the horse a bath, just prefer to hose them off from time to time. I guess I tend to think that washing too often with soap products is un-natural and can remove some of the natural protective oils the horse has on it's skin.

When I use M-T-G, which stands for Mane, Tail and Groom, and for the record my wife taught me to use this, I wear rubber gloves as the sulfur-mineral oil based M-T-G really soaks into your hands and you will be smelling like Frankenstein for a time to come. I use a wet rag to apply the M-T-G and really rub it into the skin, cause you know once you turn that horse back out, he's going to roll. You can leave him tied up to dry for a spell as well.

A light weight fly sheet can be used to protect the horse from bug bites, if it is bug bites. I don't really think the East Texas humidity makes this a good option. In any event, just rinsing off your horse and grooming him will give him some relief.

I recently read a quote, I think from the September issue of Western Horseman, to the effect that grooming your horse let you get to know each other and learn each other's personality,....boy ain't that the truth. Good luck May and safe journey.

Cowboy Humor - Cowboys and Indians?

Three strangers strike up a conversation in the passenger lounge in Bozeman, Montana, awaiting their flights. One is an American Indian passing through from Lame Deer. Another is a cowboy on his way to Billings for a stock show. The third passenger is a fundamentalist Arab student, newly arrived at Montana State University from the Middle East.

Their discussion drifts to their diverse cultures. Soon the two Westerners learn that the Arab is a devout, radical Muslim. The conversation falls into an uneasy lull.

The cowboy leans back in this chair, crosses his boots on a magazine table,
tips his big sweat-stained hat forward over his face. The wind outside blows tumbleweeds, and the old wind sock flaps; but no plane comes.

Finally, the American Indian clears his throat and softly he speaks, "Once my people were many,.....now! we are few."

The Muslim student raises an eyebrow and leans forward, "Once my people were few," he sneers, "and now we are many. Why do you suppose that is?"

The Montana cowboy shifts his toothpick to one side of his mouth and from the darkness beneath his Stetson says in a drawl, "That's cause we ain't played Cowboys and Muslims yet".

Rifle Scabbard Question and Tips

I received a question from Josh about hanging a rifle scabbard. ”I have a question on my rifle sheath (scabbard). Every which way I position my rifle sheath it either rubs on my horse or it is uncomfortable. Can you show me how you solve this problem?”

Josh, thanks for your question. I hang rifle scabbards differently based on the saddle I am using. For the past several years I am using a rifle scabbard hung on the off side (right side of the saddle when you’re sitting in it) with the scabbard connected to the cinch D ring using a latigo or connector strap and a snap hook, and to the back of the cantle using the same thing. See pictures left.

I can move the scabbard around somewhat to position for best comfort. Good for you for considering your horse’s comfort as well. A poorly hung scabbard can gouge or wear on the horse if you are not careful. I have a piece of sheepskin with two slots cut into it where I run the front latigo or connector strap through lining so it serves as a buffer where the scabbard could gall or otherwise wear on my horse’s barrel, see picture right.  Hope this helps.  Safe Journey partner. 

A Little Mare Called Reckless

I was sent the story of this amazing horse, called Reckless, and a heck of a story it is. This was a horse purchased by the Marines during the Korean War to carry ammunition to gun positions. A Marine Lieutenant named Eric Pedersen reported bought Reckless, a smallish mare, from a Korean boy who needed money to buy an artificial leg for a family member.

Loved and well cared for by the Marines, Reckless was eventually promoted to Staff Sergeant after an amazing record of service in a very dangerous environment where she was wounded twice. The story could also be called "The Little Mare That Could".

Watch the video story on this horse prized by the Marine Corps.



To read the entire story of this little mare called Reckless, go to her memorial website.

Saddle Wear Spots on Horse

Received this question via e-mail from Arlo....”My brown horse is getting white spots, some are oblong, on his back and somebody told me I needed a better saddle pad. Does this generally solves this problem?”

Arlo, I would say that the most common cause of white spots or dead hair on a horses back are a poor fitting saddle. See picture at left. Really no such thing as a saddle that fits all horses. And the most common area on the horse's back is where the bars of the saddle make contact with the horse's back. Sometimes there is uneven contact or pressure from the bars because of poor fit and that puts additional pressure on the horse's back. The picture left is a good example of that on this old roping horses of mine who I bought with these obvious saddle wear marks. He was grossly underweight at the time which can add to the effects of a poor fit.

There is only very little you can do with different saddle pads to make that saddle fit better to eliminate the problem. Of course it is necessary to have a good pad and for it to be kept in good condition. I only use a felt pad and for the last five or six years been using the Impact Gel pads which have impact absorbing gel in place's where the saddle and rider's weight are mostly felt by the horse. I have seen some pretty sweated up and crusty pads, from which the accumulation of salt from sweat can cut the hair, kill it and turn it white. This is most common, from my experience, towards the rear of the saddle pad. I lay my pads, upside down, see photo right, and scrap them with a grooming brush to remove excess salt buildup (and hair buildup) so the pad is softer on the horse's back. In the hot summer months, like now, I do this before every ride. I have seen the beginning of white hair on some horses and if you act early enough you can keep from killing the hair and making it permanently white.

If I were you I would lay my bare saddle on my horses back and check for fit. Ensure that you have some room in the gullet where the saddle fits over the horse's withers. Check for consistent contact along the bars of the saddle with the horse's back. If this is where you are seeing the white hair, chances are it's from the saddle. Make sure your sheepskin lining is intact and not in need of replacing, and maybe a new felt saddle pad is in order. Good luck and safe journey.

Tracking - Aging of Sign

One of the harder things to do in a climate that lacks noticeable changes, such as desert environments without moisture or substantial winds, is the Aging of Tracks. There are various factors and components of nature that will help in the Aging of Tracks which would provide discernible changes observable to the tracker  usually in degradation of sharp edges and the changing of the color. Some of these natural factors include:



Moisture such as Fog or Dew - will usually fluff up the topsoil (as the soil absorbs moisture and expands) and make the track appear spongy.

Rain will wash away tracks beginning with the sharp edges, however compressed tracks may leave darker areas where the moisture ran to the lowest part of the compression. Light rain may dimple or pock mark the pressure release. Rain can deliver a timeline for the tracker.

The Wind will erase gradual edges and soften sharp edges. Take note of your environment and judge accordingly.

Heat. Dries out the moisture (providing discoloration) in the ground and combined with gravity, cause the edges to crumble.

Gravity. Causes sharp, regular edges, alongside the compression of tracks/sign to deteriorate over time.

Thumb Test. The tracker, using his thumb, presses down into the soil to produce a sample that he can use to judge age of the track compared to the impression, edges, and coloration of his thumb print.

Cold. Slows down the aging process by retaining moisture.

Animal Tracks. Consider the animal traffic in the area and apply it to the analysis of evaluating the age of the sign.  In the desert during the hottest months, often lizard tracks across other ground sign indicate that the ground sign was presented no later tha the early morning hours, providing a time line to the ground sign. 

Print A at Right is 36 hours old. Note rounding or smoothing of edges defining the track. Light wind has made distinguishing print marks of the footwear very difficult to read.

Print B is 4 hours old. Note the print has retained the sharp edges of the track. With a light wind and time, this track's sharp edges will round and the depression caused by the pressure release will fill in.

One of the best things you can do is to find an area that will not be disturbed, lay your own sign each day and check the changes as it relates to the weather and environment.

Tying a Rope Halter

The other day I stopped into a neighbor's place to take a look at a cut on his horse's leg. He had his horse tied to post with a rope halter. I was glad to see him using a rope halter as I had introduced him to that several years ago, but I noticed that he had it tied wrong. I thought others may do the same so here is something to consider about tying a rope halter, which is a great tool.  I use Double Diamond Rope Halters and tied on lead ropes, rather than a lead rope with a metal snap.   



I like to tie the end of the rope halter as it comes over the bridle path to the loop on the throat latch end by half hitching it through the loop and not tying the throat latch back onto itself. I know this is confusing so here are some pictures showing the beginning and end of the correct knot for a rope halter. The photo at bottom right shows the knot that will be complete once it is clinched up a little.

Although the knot in the photo (right) is intentionally loose so you can see how it is tied, if you tie the end of the rope halter, that goes over the bridle path, back onto itself it can tighten into a hard knot if the horse pulls back.  This in my opinion is the wrong way to tie a rope halter.  

Possible Foot Problems on Jared's Roping Horse

I received the following question from a reader in Kentucky . ”My roping horse is getting much worse when handling his hooves. My farrier gets mad when the horse pulls his hoof away. Is this something that should happens when horses pull their hooves away like where I can discipline my horse? How should I do that? Thanks. Jared.

Jared, You and your farrier need to be on the same page when he is underneath a horse and that horse acts up and needs to be corrected. Nothing like driving some nails through a shoe then have that horse rip his foot away to piss of a shoer.

How old is the horse and how much do you use him? Your question reminds me of a couple young guys who were sharing a 25 year horse for Friday night ropings. Each would get 8 to 10 runs on this horse then put him away until the next Friday. One of the boys asked me to look at his horse since the horse was pulling away his back left leg when they handled his feet. When I saw the horse I saw that the horse obviously had an issue with his other foot (the back right). It appeared to be ringbone, which is a calcification around and above the coronet band that made that foot uncomfortable or even painful when the opposite foot was handled placing all the weight of the foot with ring bone.

If a horse, who previously, stands well for shoeing starts pulling his foot away, I would think first that it is problem with the weight bearing foot. There are so many things that can go wrong with a hoof, from a stone bruise to side bone, to a puncture in the hoof to a navicular problem, to a problem in the pastern or even the hock or stifle. I even had an old roping horse break of the wing of a coffin bone, essentially one of the only bone breaks a horse can have in the foot and have a chance of being healed. A great horseshoer and 12 months of egg bar shoes made this horse sound again.



Now if I have a horse pulling on his feet when I’m cleaning them I won’t let the horse pull his foot away and I’ll only give him his foot back when he relaxes,…think pressure and release – getting his foot back when he does the right thing is his release and how he learns. Sometimes, the horse needs an open handed smack on his butt and a command to “settle down”. There are some horses that will will only raise their anxiety level. So all horses are alittle different in what works for them. But making the horse stand for picking his feet up and all, needs to be done before the shoer arrives or in other words it the responsibility of the horse owner to train his horse to stand quietly for the farrier.

Horses Eating Mesquite

I received a comment from Anonymous regarding a previous post on knowing the plant life in your area and effects on horses eating it. "We live near Phoenix, Arizona and have three mesquite trees in our horse pasture. Our horses LOVE the mesquite pods. They taste sweet. (FH note: see picture left). Some horses have become impacted from mesquite pods, but our horses have been fine eating the pods that drop from our trees in addition to their regular diet of bermuda grass and bermuda hay."

Thanks for your comment. If it wasn't for Mesquite beans a lot of cattle in West Texas would go hungry in this current drought we're in. Can't say as I remember any of my horses eating Mesquite beans, which are plentiful where I live. My horses have ate dried Desert Marigold plants, Chamisa (which is another cow staple), dried Yucca bulbs all without ill effects, however they eat very little of it at any given time....and it's not a feed I routinely let them have.

Several of my horses got out of the corral the other night and ate a row of corn that was about two feet tall and all that was left the next day was nubbins. I also noticed a number Cucumber plants conspicuously missing. I watched the horses pretty close for the next day or two and noticed no bad effects.

I think the key for horses eating any new feed intentional or not, especially in any quantity, is the gradual introduction of it. As you know changes in feed can cause a horse to colic and this goes for processed and natural grain, new cuts of alfalfa or grass as well.

Glad you are feeding Bermuda grass. I know what a pain it is to get sometimes, but I think horses are better off with a grass diet or a mixed grass diet. Again, thanks for the comment. Safe Journey.

Caitlin's Tennessee Walker - Jake

I received an e-mail from Caitlin who had boarded a couple horses and when she returned to pickup her horses she found them in degraded conditions (see picture left and video below). The property owner had also let a Mare die, who had just foaled, and Caitlin rescued the foal. Since then she is having behavior (buddy sour) problems with one of her horses.

Caitlin wrote “I recently came across some of your videos on you tube. They are so helpful and informative. I was particularly interested in the video about buddy sour horses. We recently moved our horses from a barn that was seriously abusing them. If you watch the video it will explain what they were stuck in and not allowed to get out. "



"But now since they have recovered and are at our place, my Tennessee Walker is incredibly buddy sour. I have tried the techniques you suggested. I have used these in the past when a horse has an issue. My walker has turning VERY headstrong. But now a horse that has never bucked and has never been flighty, is almost aggressive to get back to them. He is bucking when I try to correct his behavior or get too far from the others. Do you have any thoughts on this? Any resolutions? I love the horse so much and he was always such a pleasure to ride. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for being there to help people and horses! :)”

Caitlin, Excuse my language, but when I saw the video I was highly pissed off,….nobody should treat a horse or any other animal that way. You are lucky your horse did not founder. I hope everyone in your area knows about these abusers. I have seen many situations like that, mostly malnourishment, you never get used to it, and, you just can’t believe even a half smart human can do that. Good for you to rescue the foal and your horses when you did.

Glad to hear that your horses have recovered. A Tennessee Walker is a great horse. The paint horse in my website header was a Tennessee Walker and QH mix, and a great horse until I lost him. He too went to crow hopping and bucking when he was separated from other horses at first. There may be some other subtle issues with your horse as well. Does he try to walk off as you are mounting and/or before you get your seat?

I would start over,…..always a good place to go too. I would work him in the round pen each and every time before you ride him. Doesn’t have to be much, just to get him focused on you and for him to be seeing you as the leader. Some ground exercises,… lateral and vertical flexion exercises, disengaging his back end (which is essential to take away his "drive train") and other tasks and checks,.......like a pre-ride check.

I think this buddy and barn sour problem is going to be a bigger problem if you only ride him once a week. Then when you ride out either by yourself or with other horses try this:

By yourself. Ride him or even lead him in hand away from the barn and other horses and before he starts to show signs of buddy or barn sourness, turn him around and walk back. Control his gait and walk back. Turn him around and do it again. Maybe each time you get a little more distance away. If you let the horse hurry back, at a fast walk, trot or canter, then he make think you’re buying into his anxiety away from the herd. You may only make micro improvements. Again, harder to improve if you only ride him once a week. If you are feeding him yourself, then you can do this each day and leading him a roper halter may also work.

When you ride with others they have to be on the same sheet as you and considerate of what you are trying to impart to your horse. Anyway, stop your horse and let the group walk feet ahead of you. The group needs to stop before your horse gets too anxious. Then you walk, and I mean walk, not fast walk or trot, to the group. Keep doing this leap frog thing trying to increase the distance between you and group each time.

If you are correcting your horse while he is separated from the herd it is easy to get to the point where you are also increasing his anxiety,..so now he’s away from the herd and getting some pressure. The other day I was riding a horse who was a little buddy sour, so when we were separated from the other horses and started to move back to them, he wanted to trot,…..I would stop him and have him walk off again. I was trying the lightest pressure possible and he got his release when I let him move again, albeit at a walk. Pretty soon he figured it out that I wasn’t going to let him hurry up, and more importantly that he didn't have to hurry up to catch up.

Take a look at his feed too. Make sure he isn't getting too much protein or carbs/sugars....this can make him a bit hot and ansty.

Horse also have a great sense of direction, so if you and the group are cantering back to the barn you may also be giving in to their anxiety about getting back to the herd or barn. Do you trotting and cantering away from the barn, and go back at a walk.

Safe journey,

Postscript: The Colt that Caitlin rescued and her Tennessee Walker, Jake:

Holsters for Horseback

I received an e-mail question from Cody asking "What type of holster do you wear when you are carrying your handguns?"

The gun and holsters in the picture (right) is a Ruger Single Action Vaquero in .45 LC carried in an El Paso Saddlery holster called the Shootist. If you notice, I am carrying it pretty high. It is actually on a canvas cartridge belt worn above my pants belt. When worn on the strong side, meaning the same side as the hand you would draw the gun from the holster, the higher the carry on the waist - the generally harder and slower draw is.

If you watch Mounted Shooters, they wear their belt and holsters around their stomach (above their normal pants belt line) and right in front.  They use holsters, called cross draws, slanting the handles or butts of their guns towards their strong side. This is for ease and quickness of a draw when in a seated position like being in the saddle.

When I was a Conservation Law Enforcement Officer, I carried a Smith & Wesson Model 686 .357 Magnum in a El Paso Saddlery No. 2 Thumb Break holster, which I had them make as a cross draw, worn on a 2 inch El Paso Saddlery River Belt. This belt was worn around my pant's belt and held in place with belt keepers. This was a comfortable rig and my handgun was very accessible. Cross draws were and are common for people who spend a lot time horseback.

The most common guns, holsters and belts I wear now are pictured below, from top to bottom: Ruger Vaquero .45 LC in the El Paso Saddlery Shootist Hoslter on a El Paso Saddlery Canvas Cartridge Belt; Smith & Wesson Model 686 .357 Magnum in a El Paso Saddlery No. 2 cross draw Thumb Break holster on a 2 inch El Paso Saddlery River Belt; Beretta Single Action .357 Magnum in a Ross cross draw holster which I sometimes carry on a canvas cartridge belt.

The reason I use Canvas Cartridge Belts for many applications is that I can carry the handgun holster on a belt that holds extra rifle rounds for the rifle I am carrying be it a Winchester Model 94 in .30-30 or .45 LC; a Marlin M1985 in .45-70 or a Sharps in .45-70.

You may be able to find decent and cheaper holsters in major sporting goods stores. On any holsters that uses Chicago Screws, consider putting locktite on the Chicago Screws. Most of the higher end holsters will use rivets or the holster will be made without any hardware. Here are some sources for modern and traditional western holsters:

El Paso Saddlery
http://www.epsaddlery.com/

Classic Old West Styles
http://www.cows.com/

Wolf Ears Equipment
http://www.wolfearsequipment.com

Frontier Gunleather
http://www.frontiergunleather.com

Kirkpatrick Leather Company
http://kirkpatrickleather.com

More Cowboy Humor - Men Will Understand

Question on Saddle Squeaking

Received this question through e-mail: "Hi, my name is Connor and I finally saved up enough money for a new ranch saddle. Its an all rough out, association tree, ranch saddle made by Corriente Saddle Company in New Mexico. The problem I have with it is that the saddle squeaks horribly, so bad to the point its bothering the colts I have been riding. I have tried baby powder but it has done nothing. What are the other ways I could fix the squeaks and also what should I use to oil an all rough out saddle? I appreciate you taking the time to read this and hope to hear back from you soon. "

Hey Connor, thanks for writing. If you have been riding that sadle for awhile now, sounds to me like it's may be more of a tree issue, but maybe you can do something more about it other than baby powder. Corriente has a good reputation, so in no way am I trying to disparage their saddles.

I would get in touch with Corriente Saddle Company, of Anthony, New Mexico at (day) 915-525-9009 or (night) 575-874-3388 and ask them what they think. Of course, with a lot of use and sweat,... your and your horses',...... the squeaking may resolve itself.

Although I know boys who would never put oil or cream on a roughout, if it were my saddle, I would condition it using either pure neatsfoot oil or a paste wax based conditioner like Saddle Butter or Apache Cream. The roughout will absorb oil pretty quick and most likely darken it. It's a little harder to rub oil or cream into a rough out because of the exposed nap of the roughout. If you decide to oil it maybe try a piece of sheepskin to apply the oil. ...and maybe try a small section underneath the skirt first. When I use Saddle Butter, I usually use a rubber glove to rub it in.

Good luck and safe journey.

Buck, The Movie - Go See It!

Had a chance to take my wife to see "Buck" this weekend. What a great movie. Actually a documentary type which follows Buck Brannaman around his clinic schedule, intermixed with pieces on how Buck grew up and came to be who he is, with interviews with his friends and family.

Go see this movie then tell me you didn't get a little teary eyed......maybe for one stud horse who didn't get a fair chance; maybe because of the moments where Buck makes a break through on a horse; or maybe because, like me, you're a little ashamed at losing your temper with a horse.

Go see the movie,...it's worth whatever the theater wants to charge you.

Trail Riding Etiquette

I received this e-mail from Collette: ”Thanks for the article on Trail Riding planning. I ride almost every weekend with my friends and we’re all girls. One of the boys from the barn and sometimes two of them will ride with us but they are always doing things to make us nervous. Sometimes without warning they will race ahead of us or they will go off the trail then come back behind us and race towards us. Two of the girls are fairly new and get really nervous and their horses become nervous as well. Are our horses going to get better (less nervous) where they will ignore this? Should we not be accepting this behavior? Or should we talk to the boys about being more careful around the newer riders? None of us are leaders so it sort of hard to figure out what to do.”

Hey Collette, your horses are acting just like horses…and those boys,..well, they should be schooled in trail riding manners. If you are riding in a group, I think the group should be riding at the comfort level at the least experienced rider. Probably best to talk about this and agree on what your group is going to do and not going to do before you ride out. Over time and with a lot of wet saddle blankets your horses will get better as will the riders.

In a trail riding group it is not acceptable to do anything to place the other riders or their horses at risk. The last thing you need or want is a horse and rider suddenly galloping off and possible spooking another horse, and not riding away then coming back at the group, especially from behind, at a high speed.

When you ride in a group it is a good time to help your horse accept being separated from the group. One way is to stop your horse and let the other riders ride a distance away but still in sight,.....say 50 yards to begin with, then stop. The separated horse and rider then moves toward the group. The separated horse may get anxious and want to increase his speed to get to the group, because they are herd animals and see safety in a group. If so, the rider rates him keeping him at a walk. This is where you have to be a leader. You are leading your horse to a conclusion that he can trust you; that he can be away from the herd and be okay.

As your horse becomes sacked out on being away from the herd when he away from the barn, you can increase the distance and even be out of line of sight. The graduation exercise is where you can ride him alone. Although if you ride alone let someone know where you are going, the route you are taking and when you will be back....having a cell phone is good idea too.

To tell you the truth I had a hard time understanding your questions and I hope I did a decent enough job answering them. But to re-cap, your trail group needs to have a group wide understanding and agreement of safety and how you are going to ride. It would be polite to ask everyone, “everyone feel like loping off?” and if someone is uncomfortable,....well then, you ride to the lowest comfortable level. This is just basic communications,....you communicate with actions to horses and verbally to your fellow riders. Talk to each other as you encounter possible problem spots in the trail and make each other aware of where you are at.

Those boys are also needing to get some manners and maybe you can give them that look,....you know that look at woman are so good at giving menfolk when we get out of line.

Good luck and Safe Journey.

July 4th - The Beginning of a Nation of Freedoms

It's appropriate on July 4th to show this Country's colors. The presentation of the Colors in the photograph below, are courtesy of the 10th Calvary Regiment,... ....the famed Buffalo Soldiers.  

Please take a moment to think about the Second Continental Congress adopting the United States Declaration of Independence on July 4, 1776,...the courage and wisdom it took,...and what that has meant to this Country, as well as the rest of the World for the past 235 years. God Bless and Safe Journey.

Question on Spurs

I received these questions from David regarding the use of spurs: ”Sir, could you explain to me the reasons why the use of spurs and what type of spurs you use? I am beginning to learn how to team rope and am riding a borrowed horse. The owner and other people he lets ride this horse all ride with spurs. I have let to buy any and am wondering if I need them, why and what kind so I need.” Thank you, David

David, I do use spurs and I like to think that I use them judiciously, meaning I don’t gouge the horse or stay in his barrel with them. I have had a comment or two from people, seeing me with spurs on videos, telling me that I should learn how to ride without them. I think that if they are used correctly, spurs can be a good aid to a rider, without making the horse suffer.

I have also seen horses get really desensitized to spurs from riders who are too heavy legged. I use spurs because I can and because if I need a horse to respond to a cue in a bad situation, then I may need him to respond now and not hesitate.

I rode up a steep, rocky, stepped incline one day and when I topped out there sat a Bull Oryx. An Oryx is an African Antelope with straight horns, really a beautiful animal, but the first time this Paint Gelding, named Chance, ever saw an Oryx. Chance spun around once then started to back sideways towards this steep rocky incline, just a few feet next to us, I had just topped out on. Glad I had spurs to help me move him away from the edge or I may not be writing this to you this day. As it was the Oryx, stood up and meandered off and we made it through that lesson in one piece.

I really only have a couple sets of spurs. One long shanked set of jingle bobs which I long longer ride with but had used for ceremonial events; and a set each of short shank and medium shank spurs each with a 10 or 12 point blunt spur rowel of an approximate diameter of 1 and ¼ inch. The medium shank spurs are for when I need just alittle longer reach to rotate by leg and heel to be able to touch the horse’s barrel.

Although some spurs can be harsher than others, it’s more how they are used. Even with spurs you are still using your seat, your legs, your calf then if necessary the spur to provide the right cue to your horse.

Help a Hero Win a Gypsy Vanner Horse

Lexlin Gypsy Vanner Horse Ranch is giving back to the military by donating horse to a worthy veteran. Help a Hero win a horse, Braveheart, donated by Lexlin Gypsy Vanner Horse Ranch of Rockwood, Tennessee by helping a veteran obtain the most "likes" on Facebook by midnight on July 3rd. Lexlin Gypsy Vanner Horse Ranch reports that Braveheart is a very sweet horse, and they will miss him, but are excited to see him find a new home with a deserving veteran.

http://www.facebook.com/GypsyVannerHorsesForSale

Click on the link above; Log into Facebook; then hit the "like" button to go to the voting site. If you have any questions please don’t hesitate to call Lexlin Gypsy Vanner Horse Ranch at 865-567-1653 or shoot an email to tmidyett@gogypsy.com

Remember to vote before Midnight July 3rd.

And if you are having trouble deciding which worthy veteran to vote for, please consider USMC Colonel, and my friend, John Mayer who was nominated by his 10 year old daughter Jesse. John has dedicated his life to service of this Country and currently he is helping wounded Marine Corps veterans get better through equine therapy. Col Mayer is truly a Great American and a deserving individual. That's his picture at left to help you find him.

Army Scout - Texas Jack Omohundro

"He was an expert trailer and scout. I soon recognized this and... secured his appointment in the United States service...In this capacity I learned to know him and to respect his bravery and ability. He was a whole-souled, brave, generous, good-hearted man...who was one of my dearest and most intimate friends.” --William “Buffalo Bill” Cody, 1910

John Baker Omohundro was born July 27, 1846 in Fluvanna County, Virginia where he grew up on horseback and was said to be a natural born hunter and crack shot, who loved adventure and danger.

When the war between the states broke out, Jack tried to follow his older brother into service but was denied until he reached 16 years of age. Finally accepted into the Confederate Army, Jack gained an exceptional reputation as a scout working directly under Col. J.E.B. Stuart's renowned Cavalry.

After the war, Jack worked his way west towards the great ranches in Texas, where he was eventually hired on at the Taylor Ranch becoming a foreman and being involved in local adventure where he and his famed ability with a rifle reportedly kept a kidnapping of a local woman from happening.

Omohundro participated in cattle drives on the famous Chisholm Trail where he saw the result on Indian attacks on small settlements and was involved in several Indian fights. Apparently it was as a Cowboy, driving cattle to Tennessee, where Jack received his nickname "Texas Jack".

On one of the cattle drives up North, Omohundro met Col. William F. Cody, a scout in the U.S. Army and more popularly known as "Buffalo Bill". Jack became good friends with Buffalo Bill, and Cody, admiring Jack's ability as a horseman, hunter and marksman, got him stay on as an Army Scout. Reportedly a special act had to be passed through political fiends of Buffalo Bill's to obtain a waiver for the ex-Confederate soldier to enlist as an Army Scout.

Omohundro was famous for learning Indian language and signs, was one of the few white men that Indians would trust. He became known to the Pawnee as "White Chief" who also called him "Whirling Rope" due to his ability with a lariat.
Incidentally, later on in life, Texas Jack taught a young man by the name of Will Rogers how to do tricks with the lariat.

Jack later joined Buffalo Bill Cody's Wild West show and toured the world giving insights to the Wild American West. Texas Jack Omohundro, War Veteran, Cowboy and Army Scout died in Leadville, Colorado, unexpectedly from pneumonia in 1880 cutting short a great life at the young age of 34 years old.