How Do I Get A Horse to Stop Pawing?

Clint, as well as a couple other people, have written to ask how do they get their horse's to stop pawing, which is an issue that has plagued many horses and owners over the years. In the past when I have been asked about pawing my usual response was, "If you get it figured out let me know", because this stymied me for quite a while.

Actually, I have had two horses who had pawing issues. I really don't care, nor respond to a horse that paws when I am entering in the pen or beginning to feed as I just don't see it often enough nor choose to make it a big deal. However, I don't like my horses to paw when they are tied. The reason a horse paws is usually because they are impatient, bored (same thing really) or have some anxiety. It can be associated with pain too, such as a gut ache or colic so you have to eliminate this as a cause.

The reason I don't like pawing when tied and especially when I am saddling is that it shows that the horse is not with you or not paying attention to you. Usually when this happens, I just get the horse's attention or make him move over to distract him. Sometimes as you are moving around getting tack, picking up grooming tools or prepping the trailer, a pawing horse just isn't cutting it.

I feel like I should be embarrased that years ago I tried pawing chains, which may be best described as dog collar like straps with a six inch piece of lightweight chain, which are intended to strap around the horse's hoof at the coronary band so when he paws the chain whip around and make it uncomfortable when he paws. These did not work for me.

I have seen pawing clamps advertised as well. These appear to be "U" type clamps that are placed around the top of the horse's hoof and also designed to make it uncomfortable when the horse paws. I passed on trying these.

One method to try and stop the pawing process is when the horse paws, pick him up and move his feet making it work and then offer him to stand still and tied again.  You want him to get the idea that standing still is a good thing - that's where he gets his rest.  However, the time it takes to untie him and get him moving makes this less effective.  A tie ring that will feed the rope out in a controlled manner can work, so the pawing problem can be addressed much like you would on a horse that can't stand still when tied. 

However, some horses, mine included, will only paw when you are too far away to address it in a timely manner.  For the two horse's of mine who had pawing problems, one of these horse's would usually not paw until I was 30 or 40 feet away doing something else, so I had to resolve this by tieing him and sitting about eight feet away off to the side and behind him with a lunge stick. When they would start to paw I would make a verbal warning and hit the ground with the lunge stick at the same time. This distracted them from pawing by getting attention on the noise I was making. I can't remember how long it took me on the first horse years ago to get him to stop pawing, but the second horse I only had to do this twice, and both times were also helpful for him to learn to stand tied and be patient.

A word or warning - don't start anything with a horse unless you have the time to see it through. I sat on an old tire behind and to the side of my horse, with my lunge stick, and just waited. This actually workd out for both of us....the horse learned to be patient,...we both got a rest,...........and my wife couldn't find me to tell me to do something.

Night Latches on Saddles

I have had a couple e-mails asking me about Night Latches on Saddles and if I have ever used one. A Night Latch is simply a piece of rope or leather strap ran through the gullet of your saddle and provides the rider something to hang onto as the horn of the saddle is tough to grasp - even tougher to hand onto if you have a wide Wade type horn.

The Night Latch got it's name from night riders watching over cattle herds. The rider would sink one of his hands into the night latch, much like a bull rider does on a bull riding rig, primarily so that if he fell asleep he would not necessarily fall off.

Night Latches have use when riding green broke horses as you can wrap your hand around the night latch, palm towards you and your elbow into your side to give you the best chance of riding out a bronc ride.

I have a Night Latch on my colt saddle and would not hestitate using one on any saddle or any horse if I thought I needed it.  The picture at left shows the part you would be holding onto.  I keep it just lose enough so I can rotate it to the other side of the horn, so if I'm riding in a halter using just the lead rope I can flip the lead rope to the other side and change the night latch to the opposite hand.   


I imagine in the old days Cowboys made Night Latches out of ropes, spare leather straps or even a spare belt. The Night Latches I use are from Craig Cameron, who calls his version a Harness Leather Bucking Strap, which is made out of premium harness leather with a quality buckle, visable in the picture at top right, made out of stainless steel I believe.   I had two of them at one time but I loaned one out and haven't got it back yet.  Again, you can use a belt, but you would not be disappointed in this thick harness leather bucking strap.

Riding into Rattlesnake Season

I try to write a annual warning on Rattlesnakes each spring. Much is the same on Rattlesnakes across different geographic areas - such as don't handle Rattlesnakes! - while the predominate species of Rattlesnake may be different across the country, down here in the desert Southwest, we mostly see Western Diamondbacks, Prarie Rattlers and sometimes in the rocky, mountainous areas Rock Rattlers, which are usually much smaller (and harder to see). 

When temperatures begin to warm in April, the rattlesnakes come out of hibernation. They remain near the den entrance for a few days to a couple weeks, hunting at night then moving off usually no more than a few miles from their winter dens.

During the mornings Rattlesnakes will seek the Sun to warm up, moving to shade for the hotter parts of the day, then back out into the Sun at the end of the day before moving off to hunt at night. In periods of higher winds blowing sand and dust, Rattlesnakes will seek protection as they have no conventional eye lids to protect their eyes.

It is a old myth that Rattlesnakes will always rattle if you are close, and always rattle before they strike. Often the first horse and rider, and maybe even the second will pass, before a Rattlesnake may rattle, which is an attempt to warn you off.

A Rattlesnake's young are born alive. The female Rattlesnake doesn't reproduce every year, usually just once every two to three years. An average Rattlesnake litter is anywhere from 4 to 10 babies, usually born as early as late June/early July through as late as September. Born, on average, around 10-12 inches long and without a rattle, only a button, the baby Rattlesnakes are fully venomous and are more dangerous than an adult Rattlesnake since they do not control the load of venom they inject, cannot rattle to warn you off, and are much smaller in size and harder to see.

Rattlesnakes acquire a new rattle each time they shed their skin, called molting. Sometimes this can happen a couple times a year, therefore number of rattles is no indicator of age.

Horses, because they investigate things with their head and nose, are often bitten on their muzzles. One of my horses, years ago, was bitten on the corner of his cheek and jaw which I attributed to his fast but not quite fast enough spook. Being bit on the nose can be life threatening as there is the possibility of the nasal passages swelling shut and cutting off air supply so the horse cannot breath.

I carry a 10 inch length of plastic tubing (nasal-gastric tubing is best but some people use sections of garden hose) so I can keep the air way open is my horse is bit. Ensure that the ends are beveled so as you insert the tubing into the horse's nostrils you won't cut his soft tissue up. Vaseline can be used to coat the tubing. I carry pieces of tubing lightly coated with bag balm and vacuum sealed in a small bag and placed into my saddlebags. If there is a substantial length of time between when the horse was bitten and you accessing some tubing, the nasal passages may be too swollen to emplace the tubes,...or they may not swell very much at all depending upon the amount of venom injected. In any case,...repeat, in any case call your Vet and get him/her enroute to you. I would not hestitate giving any of my horses a dose of banamine, but I suggest if you keep Banamine on hand then to get the advice of a Vet before giving it to your horse.

This will make some reptile lovers mad, but if I encounter a Rattlesnake fairly close to where livestock or people are,....I kill them. If we are far away from civilization, I leave them alone. Last year I did not even see, let alone kill, even one Rattlesnake and I averaged two rides into the desert a week. The year before that I saw and killed two and the year before that 4.

There is a Rattlesnake vaccine available for horses. I have not given it to any of my horses, and don't believe I will in the future. But it is an option. I believe it requires a series of three shots followed by boosters every six months.

Chances are that most people will never encounter a rattlesnake, but there is always the chance, so be careful and have a safe ride.  

Equine Neurological Diseases

The only experience I have had with horses and severe neurological disease was with a horse brought into the stables I was managing, and while in quarantine the horse became symptomatic for and diagnosed with West Nile Virus (WNV). This was around 2004 when WNV was spreading throughout the southern United States.

This particular horse, a flea bitten colored grade gelding, was not in the best condition coming into quarantine as he was bought from the local horse auction where most of the horses went to the killer market. After several days in quarantine this horse started showing signs of severe lethargy, walking stiff and having balance problems. Almost falling over when he tried to turn around. This makes you heart sick to see a horse in this condition.

Other symptoms of West Nile could have included: muscle twitches or tremors; behavior that appears to be depression - pushing head into a wall or fence; tongue sticking out seemingly paralyzed.

We got a Vet in to take blood and it was confirmed that the horse has WNV. We weren't too worried about infection of the horses in the main barn since WNV is transmitted by mosquitoes, with symptoms appearing in a horse 5 days to two weeks from when bitten/infected and the barn was mosquitoe free. I also had bug people from the hospital set traps just to make sure.  Plus WNV cannot be transmitted from one horse to another. Still, the fact that our quaratine was 300 yards or more from the main barn and arenas was comforting.

So the only thing we could do was provide supportive care....Bute, Banamine, and placing water buckets at various levels so the horse could drink easier. I also put bucket loads of sand in a quarantine stall we moved him to in case he fell over, which would not be uncommon to a WNV positive horse.

This horse actually recovered. I hauled him to a family with two young boys who adopted him and were eventually team roping off of this gelding.  There is a even chance this horse can live asympamatic the rest of his life.  

This bulletin, below, came from Western Horseman advertising a television presentation on Equine Neurological Diseases. You can receive e-mail notifications from Western Horseman as well through contacting Western Horseman at info@mktg.westernhorseman.com

Equine neurological diseases have been on the rise over the last few years. Last year, 618 equine cases of WNV were reported, up from 87 in 2011. And in 2011 the infamous EHV-1 outbreak that started in Utah caused significant nationwide concern. Do you know the signs or what to look for if you suspect your horse may be affected? Join us for a one-hour presentation on what you can do to protect your horse from these devastating diseases.

Neurological Diseases: How to protect your horse. On RFD-TV • Monday, April 15, 2013 • 8 p.m. ET.

The show will be broadcast live from Equine Sports Medicine and Surgery in Weatherford, TX with an in-studio audience. Our experts will discuss:

• Preventing horses from contracting WNV

• Importance of biosecurity to protect against EHV-1

• Diagnosing signs and risk factors of EPM

• Additional neurological diseases

Sponsored by Merck Animal Health, the show features leading experts to answer questions from the studio audience, including:

Joe Manning, D.V.M., M.B.A. Equine Technical Services Veterinarian, Merck Animal Health

Chris Ray, D.V.M., Dipl. ACVS Owning Partner, Equine Sports Medicine and Surgery

and, Reese Hand, D.V.M., Dipl. ACVS Associate, Equine Sports Medicine and Surgery

Reins to Bit Connections

Austin wrote to say, "I found your site the other day and I have already read a good portion of it. I have read few horse blogs from time to time and I have found yours to be one of the best. You have some very good info and interesting opinions. Mostly though it is your approach that I really like. Anyway I was hoping that you would way in on what if any effect using metal rein clips vs something that doesn't vibrate like slobber straps. Does it bother the horse or affect command input? Or anything else that comes to mind. Thank you and don't squat with your spurs on. - Austin"

Thanks for your comments and the advice about squatting with spurs, Austin. I have done some dumb ass things in my life, but I have yet to impale my butt with a spur rowel.  Even when I was young where I would often hear my Pa say "Boy, you're so smart you must have two brains,....one the size of a pea and the other a little bitty thing."

Back to your question,.....I don't know if I'm that concerned about vibration, or noise for that matter, coming from metal snaps connecting reins to the bit. I think the biggest reasons people would use metal snaps to connect reins to a bit are that many reins they buy already have them as an attachment, and it is also a matter of convenience.

I would think that the weight of metal snaps connecting reins to a bit would serve as a preparatory signal as the reins are started to be picked up changing the feel of the weight of the bit to the horse. I think that slobber straps serve the same purpose. Look at the picture at top - right showing reins connected to a snaffle bit using metal snaps.  Notice that the reins are loose and the weight of the metal snap allows them to hang down with loose reins.  Once these reins are began to be picked up the weight shift of the metal snaps on the snaffle can be felt by the horse through the bit in his mouth.  So the weight change of the connecting metal snaps hanging down when the reins are loose, then going horizontal as the reins are picked up, would probably be less evident if the rider had really quick hands.    

While I have some reins with snap connectors of various types, they do have springs which eventually get oxidized and sticky, or the spring strength weakens or gets dirty - all of these impacting the integrity of the connection, but fixable with some routine maintenance - a small brush, maybe a can of compressed air and a drop of WD-40 would fix most connector issues.  I wouldn't try to clean my metal snaps with a can of compressed air while they were hooked to the bit in a horse's mouth, though....just saying....  In the picture above you see reins attached using snaps to a curb bit.  In the photo on left the rider has a little contact with the horse and as the reins are picked up the slack in the reins is taken out and the horse begins to collect.  I think the weight provided by metal snaps aids in the subtle signals to the horse.  By the way, that's my lovely wife on the other end of the reins and one of her horses, Charlie, above.
 

Slobber straps, in the pictures at left are normally used with round reins, like rope reins, or a mecate (also called McCarthy reins), and of course are less quicker to change out than reins with metal snaps. But I prefer slobber straps when I can use them.  You can see in the picture at far left the Slobber Straps are handing down with a loose rein.  Once the reins are picked up, the Slobber strap goes horizontal changing the weight on the bit, which is evident to the horse, so again a preparatory command.  

Going Bitless?

Over the last couple of years I have had several people write me with positive comments about riding in a Hackamore or riding bitless like I am some throwback to the pre-industrial age.  And while I have been accused of being a cave man by my wife,... for the record, I have nothing against bits.  I used to ride my primary horse, Junior, in a broken bit with short shanks that some people call an "Argentinian snaffle" but is really not a snaffle because it had shanks, and of course shanks provide leverage.

Junior will never again be ridden in anything by a Hackamore since he cut his toungue several years ago, and while his toungue is fully healed, I just don't have a need to use anything else with him.  In the picture at top left, I am holding a hackamore on the left and on the right, a bridle with a snaffle bit.  In the picture below, on the left I am holding a broken bit, with shanks - this is what some call the Argentinian Snaffle but it is not really a snaffle at all.  The true Snaffle bit is on the right. 

So I am not going bitless with Junior because I have something against bits. In the past I have used several different types of bits. I think excellent horsemen can actually use the differences in bits, of which some are large differences and some just subtle. I ain't one of them.  Years ago I gave up using a correction bit on a horse when I figured it out that I didn't know what I was trying to correct in the first place.

Bits, even spade bit and sliding gag bits, are not by themselves dangerous. Same as a gun,...just a tool. But any bit in the hands of someone who just doesn't know how to use it or is heavy handed, it can hurt a horse and probably ruin him to a bit, or at least have that horse expecting the worst from people when a piece of metal is shoved into his mouth.

Some people believe, me among them, that horses can get stale riding them in the same bit, so the occassional switch to a hackamore or a different bit can be a good thing, as long as you are fair and judicious in using it.  

If your horse is soft in the bit or rig you ride him in and he does what you ask him to, without bracing or head tossing, then there is nothing to say you ever have to ride him in anything different. Some people can get by in a snaffle bit all their life. Throw in a good hackamore with that and I'm one of those people.

Sharps Carbine as a Saddle Gun

I was asked recently "what I thought of a Sharps Carbine as a Saddle Gun?"

The Sharps Rifle and Carbine are great rifles with a lot of history particularly in the Old West, replacing muzzle loaders and providing a greatly extended range for hunting which made the Sharps Rifle a favorite of Buffalo hunters. The picture at left is the excellent Uberti reproduction of a Sharps carbine, priced at $1,739.

The Sharps is a single shot rifle, using a lever much like a lever action Winchester, to drop a locking block and exposing the chamber to load a cartridge. The most common chambering or cartridge for the Sharps is in .45-70 also called .45 Government.

In 1874, after 700 Comanche warriors attacked approximately 30 buffalo hunters in the Texas panhandle, at a place called Adobe Wells, the buffalo hunters situated here held off the Comanches for 4 days until re-enforcements arrived. This is the famous fight where Billy Dixon made a reported 1,000 yard+ shot on a Comanche Warrior using his Sharps, believed to be in .50-110. The Comanches warriors were killed at ranges they thought they were safe at.

The Sharps rifles are commonly in 32 to 34 inch barrels, although I have one in a 29 inch barrel length. The Sharps carbine has a 22 inch barrel. Weighing in at around 10.5 lbs, and being a single shot rifle, the Sharps carbine may not be the best saddle gun depending on your need to carry a rifle. Even the U.S. Cavalry carrying a similar type carbine, the single shot Trapdoor Springfield, would primarily use their six shot revolvers or sabres before using the carbine on horseback.

More sources for the Sharps rifle/carbine:

C. Sharps Arms Inc.

Shiloh Sharps Rifles

Cimarron Firearms Company



I have never carried my Sharps rifle on horseback. I prefer a lever action, repeating rifle such as the Winchester Model 94 in .30-30 or a Marlin Model 1895 in .45-70. However, many did carry the Sharps or Springfields while in the saddle, sometimes using the saddle ring to secure the gun with saddle strings, which I'm sure gave way to carrying the rifle horizontally between the rider and the swell of the saddle.

For The Love Of A Horse Benefit

I am posting this in support of For The Love Of A Horse, a horse rescue organization.

Save the Date!

The 2nd Annual "Fore" the Love of a Horse Golf Classic is just around the corner! Registration is now open, Monday, March 4, 2013.

Please join us for a great day of golf, fun and prizes. You don't need to play golf to make a difference in the lives of horses or your community.

Register online at www.fortheloveofahorse.org If you can't join us, please consider one of our sponsorship opportunities, donation to our silent auction, prizes or simply a cash donation. No donation is too big or too small! Thank you for helping us, help them!

Warmest regards, Miaka D. Palmieri, President, "For The Love Of A Horse"  Miaka@fortheloveofahorse.org
Telephone: 404.680.0392

Hoof Supplements: Carolyn's Question

Carolyn Moore left a comment on this site: "Very informative blog you got here. Ever considered adding a post about hoof supplements? I think it would make a great addition to the site. :)"

Thanks for your comments Carolyn.  Years ago my horse shoer was shoeing Border Patrol horses on contract and met a student at New Mexico State University who was finishing his Doctorate, in some field related to ruminant management or equine nutrition, who was contracted himself to evaluate how the Border Patrol was feeding their horses. The student, Justin, was also a hand with horses having previous worked on a ranch and feedlots in Kansas, so my shoer invited him when it was time to trim and shoe horses at the stables I was managing years ago.

Since, at the time I had three horses to be shod and also held horses for other people, I spent the whole day, every six weeks, at the farrier's stand with these two and was able bother Justin with questions about equine nutrition and supplements. I remember Justin was not too supportative of supplements in general, but did say something to the effect that if any supplements work, then hoof supplements would be it, providing they have the necessary amounts of Biotin, Methoinine and Lysine in the formulation.

I actually contracted Justin at a later date to give a presentation on equine nutrition, which resulted in some people quiting their practice of feeding sweet feed and probably creating some grateful horses as well, as some needed more feed and other less.

Back to horse feet and supplements,.........my 22 year old roping horse turned up three legged lame one day and a subsequent vet check and x-ray revealed that he had broke the wing of his coffin bone in his rear, right hoof. My shoer said that he had only seen that twice before, on much younger horses, and that he had success in getting these horses sound again. If I was willing to try to bring my horse back to soundness, he was willing to try.

My shoer fitted bar shoes on my horse for 9 or 10 months and I kept that horse on Horseshoer's Secret hoof supplement. When the last bar shoe came off we had the same Vet take x-rays again, but the Vet was pretty sure because of the age of the horse that he would not be healed. I had a feeling he was wrong, and I was right as the x-rays revealed a complete heeling of the coffin bone. While my shoer deserves most of the credit, I do believe the hoof supplements provided the necessary nutrients for the hoof to heal as best it could.

Today, my main horse is Junior, just a grade horse out of Mexico. Hoof problems are pretty common in horse's who do not get consistently good feed, but when I bought Junior years ago my shoer said his feet were in terrible shape,......big outside flairs in the bars, thin hoof walls, dropped heel bulbs on one back foot. My shoer did not have much hope of this horse turning out to be a good horse for my horseback law enforcement duties in the back country. But Junior never failed me,..never lost a shoe except the time we were loping and hit a sink hole where he over stepped and sprung a front shoe which I had to finish pulling off....that's were a Hoof Wraps bandage came in handy to protect that foot as we moved back to the horse trailer.

I also put Junior on hoof supplements, alternating between Farriers Formula and Horseshoer's Secret. My shoer did his usual great job, but still today he say's Junior's feet are still terrible, but he also remarks that Junior's soles are healthy and he grows alot of foot between shoeing. I attribute that to good, consistent feed and the hoof supplements.

So Carolyn now that I've bored you to death, the bottom line is that I do believe hoof supplements work. But also believe that not all horses need them, and that a horse would have to be on hoof supplements for 9 months or more to be able to tell a difference. Hoof supplements can't fix conformational problems, but can (I believe) give your horse the nutrients for as healthy of feet that is possible for him - combined with good farrier care and consistent, good feed.  And if you put a horse on good hoof supplements, then consider not telling your farrier and see if he or she notices a difference.

Equine Soaker - Hoof Soaking Boot

While Hoof Wraps brought out the Equine Soaker quite a while ago, it's a good enough product to cover again, as well as the new Soaker Sacks that can be used with the Equine Soaker or by itself to keep a medicine on a hoof such as treating an infection from a puncture, using with a epsom salt solution for a stone bruise, or treating a really bad case of thrush. 

Hard rubber boot of which there are many designs, are hard to secure and are only as high as around the coronary band, are the traditional method of applying a medicine poultice or soaking the hoof with epsom salts. And I'm sure some of you, as well as I, have placed a horse's foot in a bucket to soak but that requires holding the horse.  On some horses the bucket works well, on other the Equine Soaker may be a better solution.  

The Equine Soaker is a heavy duty nylon sack and comes with two EVA hoof pads for the inside bottom and is secured using two velcro straps and draw cord secured with two cord locks so you can secure the equine soaker above the coronary band and above the fetlock. An additional Velcro EZ strap is provided as well to replace a worn out velcro strap or to additional secure the Soaker Sack. The Equine Soaker is made of thick ballistic nylon and has a coated nylon liner, and is six inches in diameter so it will last a long time and fit all but an elephant's hoof. Priced currently at $34.95 it is an affordable piece of equipment to have on hand.

The Soaker Sack comes in a package of two Soaker Sacks, two Velcro EZ straps and 1 EVA foam pad and are 18 inches tall x 12 inches wide. The Soaker Sacks can be used inside the Equine Soaker to prolong the useability of the Equine Soaker. Currently priced at $18.00 they are another affordable item for your horse medicine bag. Both of these pieces of horse health care items are available from Hoof Wraps.com

Horses Stopping to Eat

Alicia sent me a message on her 12 year old Quarterhorse mare stopping to eat: "Thanks for your information on feeding horses. I have a type of feeding problem with my 12 year old quarterhorse mare who when I have her in hand will stop abruptly to eat grass. It takes me fotrever to get her to quit eating. She also does this when I ride her. It is a drag to ride her with her stopping all the time to eat, but as least when I am riding I can squeeze her and yell at her which usually gets her moving again. My questions are why does she do this and how to I get her to stop?"

Your horse stopping to eat is a obnoxious habit whether it is while you are leading it on the ground or riding. While it is disrepectful you can't fault the horse until you make him aware that this behavior is unacceptable.

Sounds to me like you have found out how hard it is to pull your horse's head up from grazing with the lead line.  If it looks like my tongue in cheek photo at top then you are going about it wrong.  You won't win a pulling war with a horse.  It is easier to pull their head to the side and move their feet - their front end or back end over....or if you bump on the lead rope.  But if you do nothing else then you haven't solved the problem. You have just stopped them from eating after they started,...you haven't got her to understand stopping to eat is unacceptable.

The right thing is having respectful behavior with you, on the ground or in the saddle. So the wrong thing, stopping to eat, has to be difficult. So I think you need to lead her so she has a chance to stop and graze so you can specifically to train her not to stop and eat. Put a halter on her and lead her, anticipating andbeing being prepared for her to start an attempt to stop and eat. As she stops and trys to drop her head, you can re-direct her, with energy, to back up or move her front end or back end around. Then stop give her a pause - it is this pause or rest that helps them figure things out, then contine leading her again and be prepared to repeat.  

This is much like I do if a horse won't stand for mounting or begins to walk off as you get your seat as this,  is unacceptable behavior as well.  My horse Junior often grabs at weeds when we are moving.  I used to not worry about this too much especially at a walk, but lately I have been checking him from doing it because he needs to be with me all the time - not just when he chooses,.....a horse can get out of position going after an occasional nibble or worse yet, the problem could get bigger and develop into a problem of where the horse stops on his own to grab a bite.  Trail or lesson horses with new riders tend to learn this habit (and many other bad habits).  The trick is to get it solved now before it becomes harder to solve.       

Escape Artist Horse

Escape Artist Horse - we probably have all had one or two. I remember when I was managing a large stables with over 40 horses, we had a large turnout where sometimes there would be as many as twenty to twenty five horses.  We always had to watch when a Buckskin Gelding, named Buck (go figure) was turned out since he could and would work the protected barell latch on the turnout gate and release all the horses.  The first time I saw all the turnout horses loose, I didn't believe the explanation for the escape,...I just thought someone didn't latch the gate,...until I watched Buck nimbly operate that gate latch one time.

Anyway, it still continues to amaze me just how smart and adaptive horses are.  Many people have seen the video of the Mariska a Friesan mare opening stable gates, but in case you haven't I have posted the article and video below.   

A stocky Friesian horse at a farm near Midland, Michigan is forcing her owner's to be extra vigilant after developing an amazing knack for opening gates and stable doors.

Farmer's wife Sandy Bonem says she wouldn't want to change Mariska's mischievousness nature but admits it can be infuriating when the horse breaks out of her stable and then opens the doors for the other horses.

Sandy and husband Don Bonem live at Misty Meadows farm along with their four Friesians, two quarter horses, two cats, six chickens and with one Friesian foal on the way.

Last month Sandy posted a Youtube video of some of Mariska's greatest escapes and to her delight it has already been viewed by over 600,000 people in more than 167 countries.

The video shows Mariska first open her own stable door then those of the other horses. She is equally adept at opening both top and bottom locks and even opens a chest freezer.

'Did we teach her to do this?,' writes Bonem on her blog. 'No, we most certainly did not, it makes life such a challenge for us. Especially as we have only to forget just one of the backup latches or chains and she finds the weak link.'

Mariska is clearly an extremely smart animal who has developed her jail-breaking skills since she was a young foal.

Mariska has always been fascinated with trying to open things and over time has progressed to more complicated escapes using her nose and teeth to push and tease at even the most stubborn of locks.

As well as enjoying the freedom of the farm, chunky Mariska - who is a bit on the hefty side for her height - is also on lookout for food.

The Bonem's used to store their grain in an old white freezer until the greedy horse discovered a way to open it. The grain was then moved to an empty stall but once again that proved no problem for the wily horse.

To keep a tighter reign on Mariska and ensure the safety of all of their horses, the Bonems have had to drill holes into their stall doors and add extra pins to try and prevent Mariska from going walkabout.

This year the couple have an extra special reason to keep close tabs as Mariska is pregnant and expecting in July. 'She is very sweet and loving and intelligent. We can't wait to see her new foal this year, she is an awesome mother and we are so glad she is ours,' writes Sandy Bonem.

In preparation for pregnancy, Mariska has been put on a diet which has so far failed to result in any weight loss. Despite reducing the horse's daily hay intake she remains a hefty 1280lbs.

Perhaps Mariska has discovered another way to break out and eat grain when the Bonems aren't looking.

Cowboy Humor - Old Blue

A young cowboy from Wyoming goes off to college. Halfway through the semester, he has foolishly squandered all his money. He calls home.

"Dad," he says, "You won't believe what modern education is developing! They actually have a program here in Laramie that will teach our dog, Ol' Blue how to talk!"

"That's amazing," his Dad says. "How do I get Ol' Blue in that program?"

"Just send him down here with $1,000," the young cowboy says. "I'll get him in the course."

So, his father sends the dog and $1,000.

About two-thirds of the way through the semester, the money again runs out. The boy calls home.

"So how's Ol' Blue doing, son?" his father asks.

"Awesome, Dad. He's talking up a storm," he says, "but you just won't believe this - they've had such good results they have started to teach the animals how to read!"

"Read!?" says his father, "No kidding! How do we get Blue in that program?"

"Just send $2,500, I'll get him in the class."

The money promptly arrives. But our young cowboy friend has a problem. At the end of the year, his father will find out the dog can neither talk, nor read.

So he shoots the dog.

When he arrives home at the end of the year, his father is all excited. "Where's Ol' Blue? I just can't wait to see him read something and talk!"

"Dad," the boy says, "I have some grim news. Yesterday morning, just before we left to drive home, Ol' Blue was in the living room, kicked back in the recliner, reading the Wall Street Journal, like he usually does.

Then Ol' Blue turned to me and asked, "So, is your daddy still messing around with that little redhead who lives down the street?"

The father exclaimed, "I hope you shot that SOB before he talks to your Mother!"

"I sure did, Dad!"

"That's my boy!"

The young man went on to law school, and now serves in Washington D.C. as a Congressman......

Correcting Your Horse versus Disciplining Your Horse

Kayden wrote and asked about disciplining her horse: "I don't want to be unnecessarily rough with my horse but I am confused on not only what I should be disciplining my horse for but how to do it. I know that some behavior doesn't necessarily mean the same level of discipline or punishment. I think I would want to err on the side of caution though, your thoughts?"

Well, the first thing I would do is start thinking in terms of correcting your horse, helping him find the right answer, as opposed to disciplining him which is more akin to punishment. Correction has a positive connotation while discipline often seems to be a negative approach. In the world of training humans some people would call punishment as a motivation to learn as “negative re-enforcement”.

Horses are not going to rationalize the why on punishment. You run the risk of proving your horse right when he thinks he can't trust you, which he has an instinct for anyway.

An example of helping him find the right answer is - if a horse won't stand still for mounting I may make him move around in a circle a couple times with some energy, then offer to let him stand still - and he often will right away. Sometimes I may have to do this a couple times before the right answer is apparent with him. The right answer in this case is standing still. The point here is that you are correcting him by helping him find the right answer. This is often expressed as making the wrong thing difficult, the right thing easy. This is simple enough to understand but difficult to do when we let our emotions especially frustration and anger get in the way. You just can't take it personally. And honestly, this is something I've struggled with as I'm ashamed to say I always didn't think this way..

Another example could be if the horse walks off as I am getting my seat, I’ll back him up a few steps with energy then offer to let him stand still. Again, correcting him and helping him find the right answer. Imagine mounting and the horse moves off on his own accord then you jerk on his mouth then whack him, what will he do?. He may bolt or maybe not, but you have increased his anxiety. Now he may be thinking that his moving was justified because of having his mouth jerked on and being whacked or whipped. This is counter-productive. 
Yet another example may be trimming or cleaning a horse’s hoof. How often have you seen a horse try to take back his foot jerking a person, sometimes the farrier off balance. An impatient horse shoer will get mad and try to hit or kick the horse which only increases the horse’s anxiety and justifies him not wanting to give his foot and diminish his ability to run away. If you would hold onto the horse’s foot even if he is jumping around a little you would soon get to a place where the horse’s relaxes, then you immediately give him back his foot. He begins to learn that when he gives his foot to you, he’ll get it back.

Again, correction as opposed to punishment, and using the practice of making the wrong thing difficult, the right thing easy, is going to be your best bet to solve most all of your horse related behavior issues.

177 years ago at the Alamo

177 years ago today the Mexican Army seige of the Alamo in San Antonio (then called Bexar or Behar) began. A few months early Texians under Ben Milam took the town from Mexican Cavalry under General Cos, but on February 23, 1836 General Antonio Lopez de Santa Ana arrived outside San Antonio with thousands of soldiers and surrounded the Alamo and the less than 200 men within it's walls. Among the Texian force were Jim Bowie, Davy Crockett and the Alamo Commander Lt. Colonel William B. Travis.

The flag at top right is called the Alamo flag. It is a Mexican flag with the seal in the center removed and the numbers "1824" instead. The year 1824 was significant to the Texians as the ruling Mexican government's Constitution of 1824 granted Texas settlers rights that were in subsequent years revoked in some manner which was one cause of the Texas Revolution.

Today, featured on display at the Alamo is the "Victory or Death" letter written by Lt. Col. William Barrett Travis, who was facing certain death from Santa Ana's forces.

On March 6th, 1836 the final assault by Mexican forces were successful in overwhelming the Alamo defenders. 182 Texians were killed and over 1,500 Mexican soldiers were killed and another third of that number wounded. The Alamo defenders were fighting to protect the rights granted by the 1824 Mexican Constitution never knowing that the Texas Government of Sam Houston had declared their independence 4 days earlier.

The Travis "Victory or Death" Letter

Commandancy of the The Alamo

Bejar, Feby. 24th. 1836

To the People of Texas and All Americans in the World—

Fellow Citizens and compatriots—

I am besieged, by a thousand or more of the Mexicans under Santa Anna — I have sustained a continual Bombardment and cannonade for 24 hours and have not lost a man — The enemy has demanded a surrender at discretion, otherwise, the garrison are to be put to the sword, if the fort is taken — I have answered the demand with a cannon shot, and our flag still waves proudly from the walls — I shall never surrender or retreat. Then, I call on you in the name of Liberty, of patriotism and everything dear to the American character, to come to our aid, with all dispatch — The enemy is receiving reinforcements daily and will no doubt increase to three or four thousand in four or five days. If this call is neglected, I am determined to sustain myself as long as possible and die like a soldier who never forgets what is due to his own honor and that of his country — Victory or Death.

William Barrett Travis.

Lt. Col. comdt.

P. S. The Lord is on our side — When the enemy appeared in sight we had not three bushels of corn — We have since found in deserted houses 80 or 90 bushels and got into the walls 20 or 30 head of Beeves.

Travis

God Bless Texas

Handling Horses When Eating

Kaylay wrote and said she "remembered reading something I wrote about a year ago about cleaning a horses feet while the horse was eating but she recently read an article from Monty Roberts who said leave your horses alone when they are eating, to do otherwise would only be detrimental for them and make them mad. He was pretty adament about it in his article."

Monty Roberts is top shelf in the world of horse trainers. His ability to communicate with horses and train others to do so is legendary. If you haven't seen Monty Roberts or read any of his books, then it would be an education to do so. His book "Shy Boy" is a great read.

I have read at least some of what Monty Roberts wrote about leaving horses alone to eat. I'm going to have to disagree with him somewhat. It's not that I think you should make it a point to handle horses, rub on them, clean their feet or otherwise mess with them while they are eating, but I think that your horses should be gentled enough that you should be able to do so, just like horses should not be pushy or crowding when you are feeding, or otherwise be feed aggressive.

I routinely throw feed and while anyone of my horse's are eating I have no problem picking up a foot if I need to, picking a sticker out of their mane, put a blanket on or off, asking them to move over so I can pick manure, or even just giving them a little rubbing on the withers.  I don't see my e horses having any problem with this,....no tail twitching, no flats ears, no other signs of discomfort or anxiety.  In fact, I have one horse who will often come off his feed to come over to the fence to visit.    

Many times I trailer someplace and let my horse eat water soaked hay while I am saddling him.  Again no signs of any issues here.        

Monty Roberts is one of the best horsemen in the world and when he gives advice people should listen,..... I just have never had a problem with handing my horses while they are eating.  I see no anxiety from my horses, nor have I seemed to have created another problem.  But every horse is going to be different, so each individual horse should be read before handling that horse while they are feeding.      

Pack Moose

I was sent a link to this story about a guy who raised an abandoned moose calf with his horses, and believe it or not, he has trained it for lumber removal and other hauling tasks.

Given the 2,000 pounds of robust muscle, and the splayed, grippy hooves, he claims it is the best work animal he has.

He says the secret to keeping the moose around is a sweet salt lick, although, during the rut he disappears for a couple of weeks, but always comes home!

The moose may make a good pack animal,....but probably not for those moose hunting trips.

From Bow Hunting Face Book Page

Horse Hoof Health Questions

Emma Cay asked "You make a very good point. I really like that you help us understand what is going on inside the horse's head. I wonder can you recommend any hoof supplements? I don't like shoeing if I don't have to."

Hey Emma, you have to have some realistic expectations with any supplements. While I believe hoof supplements are among the type of supplements that actually work, they won't replace good trimming, fix bad feet or replace shoes when needed.

There are many horses due to their good genetics and/or easy type of terrain they are ridden in who will never need shoes. And I think most people will say that most horses are better off without shoes, after all that's the way they come without our interference, but of course there are some horses who can be helped with shoes or may need corrective shoeing. I have some horses of each type.

I use Horseshoer's Secret which is a pelleted for of hoof supplement and have used Farrier's Formula over the years as well. I can't tell the difference between these products in the two horses I have put on it, but I now opt to use Horseshoers Secret now. I didn't tell my horseshoer about putting my horses on this supplement. I wanted to see if he could tell a difference. So every six to eight weeks I would ask him how those horses' feet were looking. Most often he would say something like "well, he still has a flare on that back right, but he's growing good sole and growing it pretty quick, too."

By the way, holding your horse for your shoer is a good time to increase your education on horses in general and feet in particular.  I'm lucky to have a great farrier and rarely miss a chance to be on hand to talk to him while he trims and shoes my horses.  

Usually supplements have a loading period where you are giving the horse an increased dose for X amount of days or weeks, then a maintenance level. At maintenance level, you'll be paying around $25 a month to feed your horse a hoof supplement.

You have to remember that it takes 8 to 10 months or so for a foot to completely grow out, so you'll have to have your horse on the hoof supplement for a long time to see any results. If you are looking for really tough feet, since you do not shoe your horse, then I don't think a hoof supplement will give you that. I'm using hoof supplements to give my horses the best chance of having healthy feet not tough feet.  You may want to look into hoof boots. Having some hoof boots around in case of a sore foot or to treat an injury is a good idea.


Siddo4 sent an e-mail asking "Do you clean your horse's hooves every day or before and after you ride? One of my friends say not to clean the hooves before you ride as the dirt packed underneath will help protect the hoof."

I usually look at and pick my horse's feet before riding just to make sure the shoe isn't loose or the horse hasn't picked up a rock or thorn. Sometimes if the hoof is packed with sand and manure I'll leave it as a natural pad, depending on where I'm riding or what I'm doing with that horse.  But imagine a rock packed into the manure that you can't see - the constant impact may turn that into a stone bruise.   

I always check and pick his feet after a ride. Sometimes during a ride I'll dismount and check his feet if I think I need to or if I'm riding with someone, a glance at the other horse's feet as they leave the ground will let you see if he picked up a rock.

Different country and climates affect the horse's feet differently.  While I may get away with not checking and picking feet for a few days since I live in the desert, someone in a very wet area may need to clean the feet more often to keep thrush down.  

USDA Implements Animal Disease Traceability Program

If you trailer your horses out of state then read this information concerning USDA regulations on movement of horses from The American Horse Council published by the The American Quarter Horse Association (AQHA).

In a move that many thought would never happen, the U.S. Department of Agriculture instituted its Animal Disease Traceability Program on January 9. The system, which will become effective March 11, is intended to improve USDA’s and state authorities’ ability to trace livestock, including horses, in the event of a disease outbreak. The new system applies to all livestock moving interstate.

Under the new federal regulations, horses moving interstate must be identified and accompanied by an Interstate Certificate of Veterinary Inspection (ICVI), commonly called a health certificate, or other state-approved document, such as a Coggins test chart or equine passport approved by the animal health officials in the sending and receiving states.

Horses may be identified by methods currently used in the horse community, such as a description sufficient to identify the individual horse, including, name, age, breed, color, gender, distinctive markings, and unique and permanent forms of identification, such as brands, tattoos, scars, cowlicks, blemishes or biometric measurements. Electronic identification can also be used, as can digital photographs.

“All states now require an ICVI to accompany any horse entering their state. This should make for a smooth transition to the new traceability rule, since most horse owners moving their horses interstate for breeding, racing, showing, sale, etc. should already be in compliance with the provisions of the new rule,” said Jay Hickey, president of the American Horse Council.

This new rule is based on the previous National Animal Identification System (NAIS), which was the original voluntary system proposed by USDA to deal with disease outbreaks and traceability. The NAIS was not supported by much of the livestock industry, requiring USDA to reconsider its approach.

“This more limited and simpler system just adopted is the result. The new system does not require the registration of premises housing livestock or the specific reporting of individual movements of horses,” Hickey said.

Exclusions. From the USDA regulation published in the Federal Register. There are exclusions to the new requirements for the following horses:

~ Horses used as a mode of transportation (horseback, horse and buggy) for travel to another location that return directly to the original location.

~ Horses moved from a farm or stable for veterinary treatment that are returned to the same location without change in ownership.

~ Horses moved directly from a location in one state through another state to a second location in the original state.

~ Horses moved between shipping and receiving states with another form of identification or documentation other than an ICVI, e.g., a horse infectious anemia test chart, as agreed to by the shipping and receiving states or tribes involved in the movement.

However, you can click this link to download a pdf version of the Federal Register No 78 Volume 6, Part IV which covers the new regulations in great detail. Warning, this is 37 page document – during or after reading you may have the urge to gouge your own eyes out with a spoon.

Don't Feed The Bears ACTHA Obstacle

A few weeks ago I rode with my wife in an American Competitive Trail Horse Association (ACTHA) competitive trail ride event north of Las Cruces, New Mexico at Isaaks Ranch.

These ACTHA rides features a six mile trail course with six obstacles where judges grade the horse and rider on their ability to negotiate each obstacle.

One of the obstacles we faced was called "Don't Feed The Bears". This obstacle was designed to replicate hanging a food bag high in a tree to "bear proof" it like you would on a pack trip when camping in bear country. The way this obstacle was set up was a lariat rope over a tall gate entrance and connected to a large blue Wal-Mart bag. See picture at right top.

The rider had to approach the gate through a set of cones, retreive the coiled end of the lariat handing on a fence, then back their horse up pulling the blue Wal-Mart bag off the ground a certain distance.

Most of the horses and riders in our group had a hard time at this obstacle, as most horses were a little skittish at the blue bag or had trouble accepting the bag moving and leaving the ground.  This was really a good obstacle to test the brave horse.

The way I thought this obstacle should have been approached was if the horse was having some difficulty accepting the blue bag, then an approach to the blue bag just like any other obstacle.  If your horse has trouble as you approach the bag, then let him stop,.... don't let him back off it and when you can tell by his body language and head set that he is more comfortable with the bag there in front of him, then ask him to move forard. You may have to repeat several times before the bag isn't an issue.

You can then side pass him or otherwise move him to the coiled lariat. When you pickup the lariat, I suggest holding the coils in your rein hand (like when you rope) and use your off hand to manage the running end of the lariat so when you back the horse you can keep the rope off his head. Be careful if you hold the coils in one hand so the coiled lariat won't snug down over your hand if your horse bolts.

The video below is an example of this type of obstacle and how you can practice at home or the local arena. Any obstacles like this, if you take your time - really allow your horse the time, will only make him a better and braver horse.