McClellan Saddles

Jim wrote: "Hi Brad, I do get a lot of good info on your site. We talked before about the McClellan saddles and I was hoping you could maybe explain the pros and cons about them. I'm still very interested in getting one for my horse. I hear a lot of people say how uncomfortable they are but I tend not to listen to most people. Any info you can share would be much obliged. Thanks and stay sharp Rider."

Hey Jim, good to hear from you again. As you know the McClellan saddle was in use by the U.S. Military since just before the Civil War until shortly after World War II. It was named after it's designer, Army General George McClellan, reportedly after he came back from Europe where he visited foreign cavalry and horse drawn artillery units and likely formed an idea on what he thought was a good Calvary saddle.

The McClellan saddle underwent different modifications in the 90+ years of use. In fact, there are several modern military units who continue to use the McClellan or a variation thereof, not including many civilian endurance riders who started in a McClellan only to give way to modern endurance saddle designs, sometimes these modern designs originated with the McClellan.  The 1904 McClellan, above right, was made by Shawns Custom Saddles and Tack.

The success of McClellan saddle was due to it's simplicity and light weight.  While I have only sat in McClellan saddles, and have never ridden one, I think I read somewhere that for many of the cavalrymen from the 1800's, and likely U.S. soldiers after the turn of the century, their first exposure to horseback was in a McClellan saddle.  My Grandpa probably rode in a McClellan from 1878-1880 and my Uncle as well, 1915-1917.  All my saddles have hard seats so I'm pretty sure I could get used to a McClellan pretty quickly.   I would probably have to change the stirrups, as I like wide Monel type stirrups.    

The McClellan saddles will have several attachments points, usually three on the swell in the front and three on the cantle in the back. These are oval holes through the saddle tree that straps with buckles are fed through to attach items. Calvary soldiers would use these to tie coats, slickers, blankets, and bedrolls to. They can also be attachment points for carbine scabbards. The Cavalry mostly used what they call carbine buckets, like a donut for the barrel of the carbine to rest in, as opposed to full up carbine scabbards. You've heard of saddle ring carbines?  The issue carbine had a ring on the side that was used to attach a tie it to the saddle. Many lever guns, usually the shorter Trapper models, have this same saddle ring.  Another way for carrying a carbine was a socket, like a loop, that the carbine sat in.  The 1928 McClellan saddles at top right, were built by American Military Saddle Co.  

It is common to have a year associated with a McClellan saddle to note the modifications.  Some of the models had English saddle type fenders.  It's probably accurate to say that the newer McClellans were built on a wider tree to accommodate bigger and wider horses. In the early 1900's adjustable riggings was incorporated on McClellans.  The saddle at left was made by Evolutionary Saddles. 


One of these days I'll likely own a McClellan, but I'm pretty sure it wouldn't be main saddle, or if I didn't have a saddle, it wouldn't be the first one I'd buy as I don't think I could get by without a horn.      A quick google search shows that there are several saddle shops making McClellans. I did not contact any of these saddle shops to even see if they are still in business.  More research will likely yield additional saddle shops making McClellans. Good luck to you, and send me a picture if you get a McClellan.


Border States Leatherworks

Shawns Custom Saddles and Tack

Evolutionary Saddles

American Military Saddle Co.

Unbranded - The Movie

“Unbranded” follows the story of four young cowboys, Jonny Fitzsimons, Thomas Glover, Ben Masters and Ben Thamer as they travel more than 3,000 miles from the Mexican border to the Canadian border, through the deepest backcountry in the American West. The pack trip will take more than six months and wind through Arizona, Utah, Idaho, Wyoming and Montana. Mustangs, born and raised in the wild, will be carrying these four men and crew on their journey. This is a story of the partnership between horse and rider, a testament to the hardiness of mustangs, and a tribute to the early explorers whose spirit remains today. This will soon be a movie which should debut soon, and you can see a trailer for the film at the bottom of this article. You can sign up for e-mail notifications concerning Unbranded the Movie as well as receive posts from their blog.

You can also order the book, in soft cover or hard cover through the main 'Unbranded the Film' website.

During the journey, a running account of the adventures of these four cowboys was kept up in another blog hosted by Western Horseman. The pictures alone make this worth looking at.  With young men like these four, this country is absolutely in good hands. 

At the end of September, 2013, a couple of weeks after finishing the 3,000+ mile ride, Ben Masters auctioned off Luke, his Mustang Paint, at the Mustang Million contest in Ft. Worth, Texas. The winning bid of $25,000 went to the Mustang Heritage Foundation to promote Mustang adoptions.

As Ben wrote: "The mustangs are in a bad spot right now. There are nearly 50,000 wild horses in holding pens and long term pastures that will live out their lives unused and in captivity. Your tax dollars buy their hay. Legally, the Bureau of Land Management is mandated to maintain the Mustang population in the wild to 27,000 animals. This number has already been exceeded, possibly to 40,000, but the BLM cannot continue gathering horses because there is no place to put horses that are rounded up. Too many horses can cause rangeland degradation that negatively affects native wildlife, plants and rural communities that depend on range health. Currently, the only method of reducing the numbers of horses in holding facilities is adoption."

"I put Luke up for auction because I want to see more wild horses get adopted. The O’Brien family (who purchased Luke) donated $25,000 to see more wild horses get adopted. The non-profit Mustang Heritage Foundation’s sole purpose is to get more wild horses adopted. Adoption gives these horses better homes, reduces taxpayer expense, and alleviates western rangelands of potential ecological harm. What can you do to help?"

"The BLM, Mustang Heritage Foundation and other mustang organizations have different ways to acquire gentled, formerly “wild” horses. A lot of mustangs are really good horses, especially for people looking for ranch or trail horses where a good mindset is more important than a timed event. They really aren’t that hard to train. People train mustangs all the time. It takes time, dedication, and a lot of hard work but it’s an incredibly rewarding experience that you have to experience to believe."

"Can’t train, adopt or buy a mustang? Dive deeper than a Google web search and learn the facts about the impact of the wild horses, different methods of population control and the options available to correcting a bad predicament. The Mustang issue, which is growing daily, is an incredibly emotional debate. People connect with horses more so than any other animal, except possibly dogs. Lots of people allow emotion to overpower rational thinking, and they value the momentary happiness of an animal over the long term ecological health that the future of that animal depends on. Get educated, learn the issues, they’re your horses on your land."

The Trailer for Unbranded The Film. Subtitled: Four cowboys ride 16 Mustangs 3,000 miles through the wildest terrain in the American West to inspire conservation efforts and prove the worth of 50,000 wild horses and burros living in holding pens.

Speeding Up a Slowing Walking Horse

James wrote to describe his slow walking horse and ask what he can do to get his horse to move out quicker,...."I have a 9 year old gelding who I've been riding lately. He's got a good head and pretty stout, but that dang horse walks slower than any horse I've ever had. Doesn't matter if he's in a group or if I'm riding him by myself. If I'm riding with someone he always falls behind and when I urge him to go faster he always goes into a trot. I'm looking for any recommendations on how to get him to walk faster."

Hey James, sounds like your horse is not barn or buddy sour at least - that's a good thing. But that ain't much comfort when your on a aggravatingly slow walking horse. Nor it is fun to ask your horse to step out at the walk and then he breaks into a trot all the time.  I don't spend much time correcting a slow walk, nor have I been very successful at changing a slow walking horse into a faster one. I've had a couple horses who were naturally faster walkers, but on the slower ones if I need to get someplace I'll be going at the trot or canter anyway. But I would try these things:

Eliminating any chance that you are contact with the horse's mouth and inadvertently giving him a signal that causes him to slow his momentum. I think it's actually common for riders to think they are riding with a loose rein but as the horse steps out with a front leg, the rein tightens and they get a signal, however slight, that slows their momentum. So make sure you aren't doing this.

The horse at a walk moves in a four beat gait. If the rear left foot is moving forward and is placed on the ground, the front left, then rear right, then front right in that order. You can try getting your horse to walk faster by squeezing with your same side leg as the horse's front leg is moving forward and being placed on the ground. You would squeeze in the forward position behind the elbow rather than squeezing or rolling your heel into the horse's barrel. The idea is the horse will bring that extended foot back quicker. This is pretty awkward, especially if you try to squeeze on both sides alternatively in rhythm with the front feet.   I would suggest just using one leg.  The picture at right shows where I would use my leg in a forward position to squeeze as that front leg is being placed.  Again, a little awkward and I don't get consistent results this way.  

You will likely have the best results using your seat moving in rhythm with your horse then increasing the tempo and therefore the horse's walking pace. You can add a squeeze with your legs and with your seat. What work best for me is increasing the tempo with my seat and squeezing three quick times in rhythm with his foot placement.  If my horse breaks into a trot, I don't immediately correct it, nor do I get all worked up about it.  I'll let him go a few paces then ask for the walk again and start over.    

Whatever you do that helps your horse move out a a little quicker at the walk, you have to repeat often in the beginning and hopefully less often as your horse better understands what you are asking for.  What I think would be frustrating for the horse, and you as well, is to go out on the trail and work on a faster walk for a lot miles.   I would try asking for a faster walk for a shorter period of time then build on that.    

More on Using Treats to Train Horses

Megan wrote to ask about using threats to train horses....."Hello. I am under the perception that using treats to train or reward horses is a big thing to avoid. However, it makes sense to me as other animals like dogs do very well with understanding commands using treats as an incentive. A friend of mine said she watched a television program where a woman horse trainer was using treats with good results. Can you write about this?"

Bear with me Megan, as I'm going to get to your question in around about way. I would be lying if I said I don't give my horses treats by hand. Several times a week I'll stand among my horses and cut up a carrot or an apple and give them pieces. It wouldn't be uncommon for a horse to get pushy for a treat. If one of my horse's does this, I'll just back him off and make him wait, before I ask him to approach and get a treat again. There are some who despise feeding horses by hand saying that it spoils them and teaches them bad habits. I think that it certainly can spoil a horse, and the more you do it the more likely the horse will become spoiled. But I also think they'll become spoiled only if you let them.

I'll also give my horses cookies from the saddle or let them drop their heads to eat when I want them to eat if I'm in the saddle for several hours. This is another thing that is highly opinionated as some will absolutely refuse to let their horses eat when they are saddled or especially so when they are in the saddle. My practice has been to allow my horses to drop their head and grab some grass when I give them a cue. I don't like horses, especially when moving, to try and grab as something.  I correct this immediately. But, I think it's good to keep their stomachs moving when you can, especially when you are out for a long day.

If you give horses treats by hand from the saddle, you'll have to be aware of your horse stopping on his own, looking back at you and expecting a treat.

I like to say that horse's only think about one thing,.... Feed......but they think about it in two ways: where to get it and how not become it. If you are always giving your horse treats then the more inclined he is to look for them. If he's looking for cookies, then he's thinking about cookies,.... if he's thinking about cookies, he's not thinking or prepared to respond to you and what you are asking him to do.

There is some research or belief that when horses eat, they release endorphins producing a calming or sedative type effect. Some think that even when a horse drops his head, to the ground searching for feed, that they will get calmer. I have a head down cue for my horses, the same cue I use to let them know it's okay to drop their head and graze. It has come in handy when I've rode upon something really spooky for the horse. I'll ask my horse to drop his head. And while his head may go down and come back up quickly, it'll generally stay lower and longer after subsequent asking. As much as anything it gets him focused on what I am asking as opposed to the spooky thing.  But if you try to use treats to calm your horse, I think you'll only generate a horse who looks for treats. 

As far as using cookies or treats to train your horse, I guess the idea is to reward the horse with a treat once he performs as you ask. While I don't intentionally use treats to train horses, it probably has its place. I suppose if you got into the habit of giving treats out to horses in a corral or a pasture, at some point these horse would be looking for you and approaching you to get a treat. May come in handy if you don't want to walk that far to collect up a horse or if you have a horse who are a little narly when it comes to catching.

I have spent a lot of words and space not really answering your question, Megan, because I don't know enough about training with treats to really give you a good opinion. About the only time I can think of giving treats as somewhat of a training tool was asking a horse, who was 30 feet away from the trailer, to go into the trailer and stand. I did that more out of being happy with him picking that up so quick, than using it as a training tool, if that makes sense. The bottom line is that I think the best reward for a horse is in the release of pressure, whether it's mental or physical pressure. The release of pressure isn't a subtle release or a 50% release. It is a total release. And it pays to give the horse the time to think about what just happened when he has earned that release. This is the way I try to approach my horses.

Rope Halters

Jennifer wrote in with a question on rope halters - "Great site! Can you address your thoughts on rope halters with the extra knots on the nose? You mentioned chains as being a no-no, but I thought I'd ask about this particular alteration of the rope halter. I have a clinician-style stiff halter with the knots as well as the floppy rope kind. The knots definitely offer more bite, but just because it 'works' doesn't mean it's ideal. I just don't want to hurt her. Thanks!"

Hey Jennifer, I appreciate that you are considering your horse and searching for information so you can make your own decision on rope halters. Rope halters have a bad name with some people, and granted the smaller diameter of the rope adds more pressure to the horse's nose and poll than a conventional web halter when the horse pulls against it, but as far as being painful, the handler would have to intentionally jerk hard on the lead rope. And as for cruel,...well that's a choice of the handler and if he's doing it with it rope halter, he likely also be doing it with the bit and spurs.


I use 5/16th inch (8mm) polypropylene rope halters.    Like the one on Junior in the picture above - he's sticking his tongue out cause he saw me with a camera.  Most of mine are from Double Diamond Halters but a few are from Craig Cameron. Same type of quality. I don't have nose buttons (knots) on my halters,..no particular reason, but I haven't seen a need to go out and get a halter with nose buttons. Besides I would think that the pressure of the rope halter on the horse's poll (on the top of his neck behind his ears) is sufficient enough to make nose buttons redundant. Just my opinion. There are probably people who think highly of rope halters with nose knots and maybe I just haven't yet met the horse who can benefit from knots on the nose band of the halter.

On a small scale I make one piece roping reins, mecate reins, lead lines and lunge lines but I don't make rope halters simply because I can't make them to the quality or the fair price that Double Diamond makes them. You can get rope halters in many different sizes: 1/8th inch (4mm) diameter, 1/4th inch (6mm), 5/16th inch (8mm), 3/8th inch (9.5mm) and 7/16 inch (11mm). The smaller diameter halters are mostly used underneath headstalls so you can tie your horse up or dismount and lead your horse with a lead rope to the halter as opposed to leading from the reins.

While I almost exclusively use 5/16 inch polypropylene rope halters with a tied on 14 foot lead line (no snaps or hardware at all), I do have a rope halter with a rawhide nose band - see picture at right.   I've only use it a couple of times.  The rawhide is harder than the rope so it provides more pressure,  more of a bite on the nose. Again, while it's all in hands of the handler, the rawhide can dry out and become prety rough on the nose, whether it's a rawhide nose band or just a couple of rawhide buttons where halter nose band knots would be. So I suggest that if you use a halter with rawhide nose band or knots then to periodically check it for roughness or sharp edges. I use raw hide cream to keep them conditioned.

If I could only have one piece of equipment, I would choose a rope halter with a lead line over anything else, including a saddle, because I could use it for ground training and could ride in it.    

Good luck to you and safe journey.

Professional Horseshoers

I was pleased to meet Dusty Franklin of Five Star Horse Shoeing School when my horseshoer, Vince Vesely of Diamond Bar V Horseshoeing, brought Dusty with him to my appointment. Dusty was in nearby Las Cruces to do a Horse Shoeing clinic on one day then on the next day did testing for Certified Journeyman Farrier certification.  Photo:  R - Dusty, Vince - L.

It took them no time at all to knock out 6 horses and provide a class in conformation along the way.

Both these farriers do a lot to professionalize the Horse Shoeing trade, which is often misrepresented by ill trained, shade tree horseshoers who hang a shingle out.  When I ran a large horse barn for five years, I would see a dozen different shoers every couple months, probably the worst being a horse owner who took a two week school then shoed a couple horses cutting them too short where thy bled. 

And with the saying "No Foot, No Horse" being as valid now as it was before, it pays to have the best shoer you can find.   I can't remember how many times I get calls asking for a referral to a horseshoer and when I ask "what happened to your old shoer?", I get answers like "He didn't show up", "I can't get him on the phone", or "It's about time I had my horse's trimmed, it's been 15 weeks and I got to find  somebody." I tell people to go to the American Farriers Association (AFA) website and use the locate a farrier tool and try to find someone with a CJF - Certified Journeyman Farrier next to their name.  There are other certifications and endorsements for AFA Farriers, go to their site and get familiar with the AFA.   

Vince has been shoeing our horses for going on 12 years now. We appreciate the fact that he not only has kept our horses sound footed, healed one of our horses with a broken coffin bone, cut out white line in others, but he drives over 2 hours one way to get to us - never missing an appointment. When he says he'll be here at 8:00 am, you can count on seeing his truck pull through the east gate at 8:00am.  I am glad I'm a lot older than he is, so I have a good chance on dying and not needing a good shoer anymore before he quits shoeing. 

Dusty owns and operates Five Star Horseshoeing School, housing students at his school and offering four different courses, from a 6 week Introduction to Horseshoeing to the 24 week Journeyman Farrier Course. Dusty offers a huge price break for the longer course towards his goal of producing farriers who are professional and will represent the trade well.  He is also on the American Farriers Association certification committee.

Arena Obstacles: Twist on the Old Rope Gate Obstacle

If you have ridden in several American Competitive Trail Horse Association (ACTHA) Challenges, it is likely you have seen the rope gate obstacle. It struck me as odd to ride a six mile trail ride only to come to a simple rope gate as an obstacle. But I guess it serves to see if the horse and rider can position up to open and shut the rope gate. And of course the rope gate, which is safer than wire gates, is something you'd don't see in a pasture but is safe way to measure these skills.

ACTHA recognized that not all riding groups have access to six miles of trail, which also necessitate six different judges or a pretty well planned route and organized transportation system to move people for judges around, so they came up with the Arena Obstacle Challenge format.   While ACTHA did not invent the arena obstacle format as many local and regional competitions have been using this type of obstacle format for decades, it is a great idea. Probably the most famous, or at least most challenging, of these arena obstacles are the Extreme Cowboy Racing Association (EXCA) founded by Craig Cameron years ago.

I'm of the opinion that if I spend hours trailering to and from an event, such as an arena challenge, I liked to ride against multiple and challenging obstacles. Some of this can be achieved by putting your imagination to work and designing obstacles that require multiple tasks on horseback using obstacles.

In other words, get multiple uses of your obstacles. This saves time and space, as well as letting the competitors go home thinking they got their money's worth.

The drawing above is a diagram on how to get more from your common rope gate obstacle. Basically the idea is to restrict approach to the rope gate so the rider has the challenge of positioning his/her horse for the gate as opposed to riding straight in.

After the rider opens the gate, moves through then closes the gate, a dismount is required. Then the rider opens the gate with his horse in hand, moves his horse through, then closes the gate. The last task would be to re-mount either from the fence or a mounting block.

The rope gate obstacle as run this way requires not only the ability to position up your horse for a side pass to open the gate, then go through and re-secure the gate, but also requires moving your horse in a tight circle or moving his hind end independently of the front end; it requires a demonstration of a safe dismount and how well the horse stands before an open gate before given the cue to proceed through the gate in hand; and lastly requires a mount from a mounting block or fence where the rider needs to position his/her horse to enable this mounting.

The gate in this instance is nothing more than a length of rope with a snap link on the gate opening end. A length of PVC pipe with a cross piece to retain the snap link serves as the gate latch. A traffic cone helps hold the PVC pipe in place and reminds the rider not to bump into it. The anchor end of the rope gate is simply secured to the arena fence. I'm using a lightweight wooden ground pole to restrict access/approach to the rope gate, but small traffic cones or a flour line poured onto the ground will work as well.

In the video below I am demonstrating how I think this obstacles should go, albeit smoother for better riders than I am.  

How Are Your Horse Trailer Tires?

Two recent events gave me the thought to write this article:

One - I blew out a trailer tire coming home from an event and when I took the tire and rim into be be changed out, I noticed that the tire was 8 years old. I thought that the oldest tire I had on that trailer may have been 5 years old, but I was wrong, and.....


Two - A friend of mine who sometime trail rides with my wife and me, but mainly competes in dressage where she has to trailer quite a ways to events asked me to look at her trailer tires to see if I thought she was safe until she had a chance to replace the tires. She mentioned that the tires still looked good, but someone had told her she needed to replace them. 

I think it's probably pretty common to people to run tires way beyond their life span and to under-inflate those tires as well. Both risk a blow out, and when one tire blows out it places more stress on the other tire, then you have a potentially bad accident.

Most people are going to have trailers tires that have outlived their life span before they run the tread down where it's becomes obvious that the tire is old and needs replacing. The sun, heat, rain and snow plus the pressure of the trailer's weight all degrade that tire over time, particularly on the sidewalls.

Tire pressure should be checked when the tire is cold. Just because the tire pressure was good last week doesn't mean that they have retained their pressure today.....there are just some mysteries that won't be answered until we meet our Maker,....how come you put three pair of socks in the dryer and only get five socks back,....how come vampires don't like garlic,....and why a perfectly good tire without any holes in it loses air.

Use a tire gauge to check pressure. If you routinely trailer horses then setting up a permanent air station to make it easier to top off air in your tires sure makes a difference. Under inflated tires hampers handling and decreases tire life. Don't forget to check your spare tires as well.

Probably another common practice is to put passenger tires on the trailer as opposed to trailer tires. The difference being that passenger tires have more flexible sidewalls that can increase trailer sway. Trailer tires have stiffer sidewalls to help reduce sway. Most tire experts will tell you not to use passenger or light truck tires on a horse trailer.

When it comes to choosing a bias or radial tire how you use the trailer will help you decide. I use bias ply tires as they are intended for rougher terrain and generally have thicker side walls to help against punctures from cactus, mesquite thorns and sharp rocks. I have blown two bias ply tires on my horse trailer in one day,...several times as a matter of fact,....so I always carried two spares and sometimes I threw a third spare into then bed of my truck when my spidey sense told me to.

Radial tires are recommended for mostly paved road travel at higher speeds and when you trailer many miles and tread wear is important to you.

How to Read a Tire: 

What ST225/75D15 means:

ST
Type of Tire: P = Passenger, LT is Light Truck, ST is for Special Trailer

225
Tire Width, sidewall to sidewall in millimeters

75
This percentage compares the tires section height with the tires section width. For example, this aspect ratio of 75 means that the tires section height is 75% of the tires section width.

D
Indicates the construction used within the tires casing. R stands for radial construction. B means belted bias and D stands for diagonal bias construction.

15
Diameter of the wheel in inches


What DOT 6WVX 3410 means:

DOT (certifies the tire manufacturer’s compliance with U.S. Department of Transportation tire safety standards

6WVX (Manufacturer’s Code, tire size and tire code optional)

3410 (Date of Tire Manufacture - 3410 = 34th week of 2010)

So take a look at your trailer tires.  May attention to the date of manufacturer and if your tires are 4 or 5 years old, chances are you'll want to consider changing them.  Safe Trailering is essential to a Safe Journey. 

Blind Cowboy Joke

An old blind cowboy wanders into an all-girl biker bar by mistake... He finds his way to a bar stool and orders a shot of Jack Daniels. After sitting there for a while, he yells to the bartender, 'Hey, you wanna hear a blonde joke?'

The bar immediately falls absolutely silent.

In a very deep, husky voice, the woman next to him says,"'Before you tell that joke, Cowboy, I think it is only fair, given that you are blind, that you should know five things:"

1. The bartender is a blonde girl with a baseball bat.
2. The bouncer is a blonde girl with a 'Billy-Club'.
3. I'm a 6-foot tall, 175-pound blonde woman with a black belt in karate.
4. The woman sitting next to me is blonde and a professional weight lifter.
5. The lady to your right is blonde and a professional wrestler.

"Now, think about it seriously, Cowboy.... Do you still wanna tell that blonde joke?"

The blind cowboy thinks for a second, shakes his head and mutters, "No...not if I'm gonna have to explain it five times............"

What are You doing with Your Horse?

Not too long ago, I wrote about Cross Training for horses and how some are taking advantage of the different opportunities to make their horse better. Not necessarily better in a competitive event way, but in the making of an all around horse.

I received a few comments from people who said their horses did better in the arena when they took them on trail rides.

Using competitive events to make a better horse usually requires the rider to push away thoughts of scoring, but also thoughts of what other people think of you and your horse. After all, it's about your horse. And like the saying go's - "there's always tomorrow".

During Arena or Trail Obstacle Challenges, where the horse and rider approach and move through obstacles usually within a time constraint, some rider's will try and push their reluctant horse across a bridge or through a curtain only to meet resistance from the horse. He just isn't ready. To try and push him through the obstacles usually builds anxiety within the horse, justify his initial apprehension, and decreases the chances of him completing that obstacle in the time allowed. And if your horse totally refuses to complete an obstacle and the rider moves on to the next, the horse has just learned he can refuse an obstacle and out wait you. I think the rider's who are thinking long term, will wait on their horse to approach the obstacle in a willing manner.  In the video below, I intended on letting my horse set the approach to the yellow slicker.  I took a slow jog towards to the slicker, letting my horse look at it and drop his nose on, and as he showed no big issue with it, I asked him forward so I could position up to retrieve the slicker. 

More than one rider tried to urge their horse towards the slicker before that horse was ready to accept getting closer and in each case it didn't work out well as the horse was on his own schedule.  The difference between approaching the obstacle when the horse is ready and trying to push him to the obstacle because of a judges clock, is often only a few seconds.     



When a rider pushes aside the time constraint, and doesn't worry any judging or scoring, time can be taken to use that obstacle to make a better horse. I've seen rider's run out of time then ask the judge if they can continue, and I have seen rider's work on the obstacle after the competition is over. In both instances, thinking of their horse.

The same goes for Ranch Sorting. It has become became pretty popular. While it's a timed event, you can approach your runs as slow as you like, providing your partner thinks the same, and focus on letting your horse get comfortable with what you asking him to do, and build on that. If someone brings a new horse, unexposed to cows, we'll let that horse and rider follow a seasoned horse and move among the cattle getting that horse used to not only the cows but a crowded environment.

Sometimes you'll see an otherwise considerate rider caught up with the competitive aspect, trying to sort as many cows as they can in 90 seconds, regardless on how his horse feels about it. Jerking and pulling on the horse's mouth until the horse is forced to move his feet to keep his balance, or if the horse raises his head and starts backing to get away from the pain of the bit, which slows his forward movement, the rider applying spurs in less than a judicious manner to move the horse forward - in both these cases the horse is getting second billing and the event becomes detrimental to advancing the horse creating some things that have to be undone, which is sometimes harder than teaching something new.

The video below is a Ranch Sorting run by two friends of mine. Aside from just looking like fun, these two work quickly when they need to and take their time when that's necessary. While their horses are old hands at this, this is an example of riding without creating anxiety in your horse and making his worse.

Merry Christmas 2014 - Christmas Caroling on Horseback

This was our third year doing a Horseback Christmas Caroling ride with a truck and trailer for dismounted singers. Stopping to sing, well what passes for singing, and passing out candy to kids is really a good way to get children up close to the horses.

To see a kid's eyes light up when you ask him if he or she wants to sit a horse and get their picture taken is reward enough for the morning's logistical effort to decorate the trailer, prepare candy bags and have the horse's suffer the indignity of wearing bells and elf hats.

One of our stops this year included a little 7 or 8 year old boy with eyeglasses so thick and heavy they were falling off his nose. To see that kid's joy at sitting a horse for the first time in his life made the whole day. He was one of maybe 20 some odd kids that sat my horse for the obligatory picture taken by their parent.

This is something other horseback groups can do. Maybe it can be worked into a event to deliver presents to economically disadvantaged families. Maybe a food drive as well. Imagine a pack train in a urban barrio or poor rural area with Santa's helpers, the riders, pulling presents out of a pannier.  We'll be thinking about that for next year.

Afterwards, we always have chow and sit around a fire. This year, Frito pie (Chili on top of fritos, onions, cheese and lettuce), brats, potato and macaroni salad and lots of desserts made a great ending to the day eating and chatting with our neighbors.

But doing something for others shouldn't begin and end at Christmas time. As Americans we enjoy freedoms and a quality of life greater than any other citizen of any other country. Whether it's from a religious or intellectual perspective, it pretty much seems to me that each of us has an obligation to do what we can to help those who are much less fortunate than us.

Doing community or charity work on horses is a great way to enjoy your horses. It can also be a good training event - something that can help your horse...... and I say this after getting my horse to approach a jumping balloon during this caroling ride.  There are also many deserving charities that would be happy to receive your support. Some of my favorites are the Childrens Hunger Fund, Task Force Dagger Foundation, Cal Farley's Boys and Girls Ranch, Saint Josephs Indian School and several Horse Rescues.

 If we all did a little bit, it would make a large difference. Merry Christmas and Safe Journey to all.

My Horse Anticipates My Commands

Carolyn wrote that when she rides her horse towards the arena fence her horse most often turns before she gives him a cue. "Hi. My horse is very well behaved but he has a tendency, when I am riding towards the fence of the arena, to turn before I ask him to turn. I don't know if it's fear of being ridden into the fence, or poor eyesight, or just a lack of trust in me. It's really aggravating and I'm at a loss to correct this. Any time tested tips you may have would be appreciated. Regards, Carolyn."

Hi Carolyn. The most likely reason your horse turns before you ask him to when heading towards the fence is that he is anticipating the turn. He probably also anticipates in other ways as well. Does he always anticipate a turn toward the gate or towards other horses? A common thing that horses do is to turn towards the gate, sometimes speeding up when heading to or facing the gate, or slowing up at the gate anticipating leaving the arena or signaling their desire to get back to their pen and their buddies. So often, horses seemingly anticipating a cue is herd bound or barn sour behavior.

When riding towards the arena fence, keep your horse between your legs and you may have to have a little more contact with his mouth (riding in a bit) or on his nose (riding with a bosal) to be able to correct him anticipating a turn. Stop your horse before he gets too close to the arena fence where he wants to anticipate a turn. Then I would mix up what you do next. You can back him, turn him away from the gate, ride a circle and approach the arena fence again.

You can stop him, do a roll back, and head towards the opposite arena fence and do the same thing. You may stop him back a ways then have him depart at the trot towards the arena fence again.

I particularly like heading towards the arena fence, stopping, backing then doing a roll back toward the next fence line. Each time you should turn away from the arena barn gate, if this seems to be an issue for your horse, and each time will be turning in a different direction.

Over a short amount of time, you should be able to get closer and closer to the arena fence before he wants to turn on his own. Each time you approach the fence stop him, back him, turn him opposite the gate, do a roll back or double him before he attempts to turn on his own.  Keep him busy doing different things.  

Try doing all these things width wise and length wise in your arena. Pay attention to your horse doing those herd bound, barn sour type behavior. If you keep your horse busy enough, and you are fair about it, a lot of this behavior can be reduced or eliminated. And one more thing you may do when you end your arena training sessions, if to stop furthest away from the gate and either dismount and lead him in hand out of the arena, or from the saddle walk slowly to the gate.

I'm not such a good hand correcting this but what I would do is similar to what you would do for the barn or buddy hour horse.  Don't give him the chance to anticipate - direct him into something else. 

For the barn/gate sour horse it makes sense to make it work for him to be near the gate and give him a rest when he is furthest away from the gate. This is what you hear referred to as "making the wrong thing work and the right thing a release or a rest". Trot him in a oval or a circle near the gate, stop and back, turn away from the gate and take you horse to the far end of the arena and give him a rest.

Hope this helps Carolyn. Safe Journey to you. 

Slaughter Ban - Saving America's Horses?

Nobody loves horses more than I do. Some certainly love them as much, but show it in a strange way by blocking horse slaughter in the U.S. which subjects unwanted horses to be taken to Mexico for slaughter.



The passing of the House Agriculture Appropriations bill, which will surely be approved by the Senate and signed by the President next week, includes verbiage eliminating the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) from conducting horse slaughter plant inspections in the U.S., at least through September 2015, will ensure that the route to Mexico stays as the only viable path for unwanted horses.

I have seen far too many over crowded trailers of horses heading to Mexico. The old, the sick, the unwanted and the young. In Mexico these horses are subjected to very a cruel death. Very cruel only if you consider being put through a squeeze chute and have some Mexican plant worker stab the horse in the neck by the withers until the horse is paralyzed or drops, then a hoisted by a chain around their rear legs to hang upside down, throat slashed and bled out.

I can't even begin to imagine the horses' screams. At least in the U.S. slaughter plants, tragic as it is, horses were put down in a humane manner.

It would be great if every horse in the U.S and the world could be born and be assured of living to a natural death, having enough feed and water in between, but that is hardly reasonable to hope for. I think if people in the U.S. really cared about horses, there would be a method to euthanize unwanted horses in a humane manner where the horse is treated with respect and dignity and is not being terrorized for hours and days before being put down.

Even though the European Union's (EU) decision to block horses slaughtered in Mexico from being exported into the EU, which goes into effect on January 15th, and the blocking of horse slaughter in the U.S., the slaughter of horses in Mexico will not stop as there is just too big of a world market for horse consumption.

I applaud and have monetarily supported horse rescues who give mistreated and unwanted horses a lifetime home. I know several of these rescues put their lives and entire income into providing care for these horses, many of which are not capable of being ridden. My wife and I have three horses, due to age and injuries, will not ever be ridden again but will die a natural death on our property no matter how long that takes. But to not have a humane means to dispose of horses and subject them to a terrible death in Mexico is unacceptable.

Carrying an M-4 Carbine on Horseback

Cheney wrote to ask about any ready made solutions for carrying military style rifles/ carbines while horseback. "Hey, I am a elk hunting guide in north Jackson and a combat medic in the Utah national guard I was wondering is there a effective way to carry a M4 (handy trail caliber and very light available in big bores such as .458 SOCOM and .50 Beowolf). I wonder as my job involves a lot of riding and walking over rough bear filled country if there is a way to do that or your thoughts on the matter. Thank you very much. Cheney."

I received this on Veteran's Day and sorry it is taking me awhile to respond to you, Cheney. A little know fact to most Americans is the extent of which our National Guard and Reserves served in Iraq and Afghanistan,...thank you for your service.

Some people reading this may be unfamiliar with the .458 SOCOM and .50 cal Beowolf, so to summarize, the .458 SOCOM - with a 300-grain round has a muzzle velocity of 1,900 ft/s and 2,405 ft lb energy which is similar to a .45-70 Government cartridge. The .50 Beowolf also has a 300 grain bullet at a muzzle velocity near 1,900 fps and a muzzle energy of 2,300 fpe, again similar to the .45-70 Government. Complete Upper Receivers are available to turn a common M-4 in .223/5.56 caliber into a big bore carbine.

While I would prefer a big bore rifle if I was routinely in Grizzly country, I don't think I'd carry a M-4 chambered for .458 SOCOM or .50 Beowolf. While, a standard M-4 firing the .223 Remington or 5.56mm NATO cartridge may be pretty underpowered to put down a Grizzly, you would have 20 or 30 rounds to do so. But you are the one that's going to be potentially facing a Griz, so good luck on whatever you decide.

If you want to carry an M-4 readily accessible on horseback, your options are a modified scabbard that considers the M-4 pistol grip and extended magazine.

 I think you can get 5 or 10 round M-4 magazines, but even a 20 round magazine would be easier to cary than the standard 30 round magazine. The M-4 just offers some unique scabbard challenges. You may be able to find someone to build you a custom scabbard, or you could use a short gun bag and rig that to you saddle like a scabbard - maybe something like the nylon scabbard in the picture above left.

Or you could carry the M-4 across your back. Carrying the M-4 across your back would be better than carrying across your chest as this would obviously be a pain in the butt guiding your horse, using a rope or leading a pack train. A 10 inch upper (shorter barrel) would work better than a standard 16 inch carbine and accuracy shouldn't be a problem with the shorter barrel if you are primarily using it as a defensive gun against Grizzlies - probably no long range shots.  Plus the across the back carry ensures that you have the gun with you when you dismount.

A body sling would have to be tight so the carbine wouldn't swing around or otherwise bang around when at the trot or lope. But still allow for you to swing the carbine into action. I would like to have a quick release in case you got hung up on anything. In the video, I am using a older modified Mamba sling from Spec Ops Brand Military and Tactical Gear. This sling has a length of bungee cord covered in tubular nylon which allows the carbine to be adjusted tight to your body still while allowing enough movement for the gun to mounting to your shoulder. It would be necessary to have a side mounted front sling attachment.

I rode for a while carrying an M-4 carbine in this configuration and it worked pretty good.  I had to cross one hardball road and I hope a didn't alarm the lady in  the truck that passed by!  There is a modern day precedence for carrying military weapons on horseback.  During the early days of the war in Afghanistan, Special Forces teams from the 5th Special Forces Group infiltrated and linked up with anti-Taliban groups, then rode those little Afghani horse's into combat as they pushed the Taliban out of Afghanistan.  The Horse Soldiers, by Doug Stanton is a good book about this.    

Spec Ops Brand offers a sling called the Patrol sling which would work. This is a two piece sling with the covered bungee. This sling has a quick release buckle in case you get hung up, and has a quick adjustment buckle so you can tighten and loosen the sling as needed. I think this is your best bet. You can get to Spec Ops Brand through this link.

Border Patrol Horse Patrol agents seize over 400 lbs of Drugs

Not only do drug smugglers bring narcotics across the border on horseback, the good guys use horses to combat drug smuggling. There are places along the border that Border Patrol agents are not allowed to use motorized transportation. These places and long tracks in rugged border mountain areas are where horses come in real handy. There are many people who have not experienced the Southern border first hand and have no idea of not only the problems with criminal groups smuggling narcotics but people as well. The difficulties with the terrain and climate add to the burden of enforcing the border. In many sections of the border, communications is non-existent. Agents can't communicate to their dispatchers, nor call for help if needed. The story below is an example of the doggedness of Border Patrol agents, assisted by CBP air units.

U.S. Border Patrol Agents assigned to the Lordsburg (New Mexico) Stations Horse Patrol Unit, with the assistance of Air and Marine units, tracked and located a group of narcotics smugglers Tuesday 18 November in the dense terrain of the mountains of southern New Mexico. This incident was one of many that resulted in drug seizures as part of a very busy week for agents in that region.

Agents first discovered that several individuals crossed the U.S.-Mexico border on foot near Antelope Wells on Saturday and began tracking them through the Animas Valley. Due to the difficulty of terrain, the search became tedious.

Agents remained persistent in pursuing the suspected illegal crossers over a span of three days. The combined effort of agents on the ground and assistance from members of the Office of Air and Marine-El Paso Air Branch resulted in the seizure of 412 pounds of marijuana in the "Cowboy Pass" area, approximately 45 miles north of the starting point.

Among those arrested in connection with the seizure were: Isidro Torres-Nunez, 24, and Juan Carlos Rodriguez-Delgado, 22, both of Culiacan, Sinaloa, Mexico; Felipe de Jesus Beltran-Torres, 21, of Tamazula, Durango, Mexico; and Aron Jovan Baldarrama-Villanueva, 20, of Nuevo Casas Grandes, Chihuahua, Mexico. The suspects were place in custody and Agents recovered seven burlap wrapped, makeshift backpacks containing individually wrapped packages of marijuana. The 412-pound seizure carries an estimated street value of $330,240.

Also apprehended in the group of smugglers was Gustavo Aispuro-Corral, a Mexican national who had been hired to travel with the crowd for the purpose of carrying food and supplies.

The above story was in a news release from Customs and Border Protection.

Tack Tip - More Than a Get Down Rope

  

At the request of several people for smaller, lightweight ropes for emergency lead lines on the trail, I have taken 1/4 inch Poly rope with a nylon core, usually 12 foot long, and fraying the rope at one end with a flat waxed line knot and braiding leather poppers at the other end to make a Get Down rope.










 




I keep several of these around, one usually handy to use as a catch rope where I loop the rope around a horses neck and lead him from pen to corral and such. The advantage of this is that's its much quicker than tying a halter and I think it actually helps a horse understand and react to neck pressure before you introduce neck reining.

Some riders will put a bridle over a halter but don't know what to do with the lead line except take it off and carry it with them. With a 1/4 inch 12 foot Get Down Rope, you can leave the thicker and more bulkier lead line at the barn and still have a line to attach to the halter for leading on the ground.  Because of the Get Down usually being a smaller diameter rope, a good way to secure it to the halter is with a double round turn. 

The Get Down rope can be used in the traditional manner, as the name implies, by attaching the rope around the horse's neck with a non-slip knot and securing the other end to the saddle. Be careful not to use a slip knot for the obvious reasons. I would also not use a rope like this when working cattle as you don't need a cow's head or horns getting underneath the rope when you have one end tied around the horse's head and the other end secured to the saddle. I use a bow line knot to make a non-slip loop around the horse's head.  If you were planning on leading the horse from the ground, you would tie the loop closer to the horse's head so the loop won't slip off the head. The picture above right is a way to carry the Get Down rope in a fashion that cannot tighten up on the horse's neck.  

The other end of the Get Down rope can secured to the saddle. You can coil the end and tie it to your saddle using the saddle strings - see picture above right. Or you can tie off the excess line to the saddle horn using clove hitch or a quick release knot - see picture below.

 

I have found other uses for a Get Down rope. I used it to keep tie open an otherwise one way Arizona gate so trespass cattle can be pushed back to their own pasture. I have looped the rope over a pasture gate that opened towards me but the vegetation did not give me chance to open it by hand.

You can just carry the Get Down rope in a coil tied to the saddle strings next to or in back of the cantle. In fact, many trail rider prefer this method and even though I ride in Mecate reins, I'll usually carry a get down rope in this method in case I have to pony a horse or something.

Veterans Day - Remembering the Often Forgotten Veteran, the Horse

If you are reading this then you are likely to have seen the movie "War Horse" and as hard as it was to sit through the scene where the horse ran through concertina (razor) wire you would have an appreciation of how key horses were to warfare before the advent of motorized and aerial transportation. By the way, I was squirming in my seat during the concertina wire scene in War Horse, telling my self, "it's a movie,...it's not real, it's a movie."

Horses have been used in warfare since several thousand years before Christ. From scouting the enemy and carrying messages back and forth, riding into battle charging enemy lines, to pulling chariots and later artillery pieces, and packing equipment and supplies, horses, mules and donkeys of all breeds and types have served man in man's attempts to kill each other. If you were like me, you grew up on stories about General Robert E. Lee's horse Traveler, or Captain Myles Keogh's horse Comanche - a survivor of Custer's defeat at the Little Bighorn.

Horses have been and will continue to be used, albeit in smaller numbers, for military purposes. Horses and mules played a vital role in transporting weapons, ammunition and material across the Hindu Kush from Pakistan to Afghanistan to help drive the Russian invaders out. Twelve years later, Green Berets from the 5th Special Forces Group rode horses into combat to drive the Taliban and their al-Qai'da brethren out of Afghanistan. In fact, a statute honoring this sits near the 9-11 memorial site in New York City. This story can be read in Doug Stanton's book - Horse Soldiers: The Extraordinary Story of a Band of US Soldiers Who Rode to Victory in Afghanistan.

And perhaps the greatest war horse story was Sergeant Reckless, a little mare who served in the Marine Corps in the Korean War. A new book is out about this amazing little horse with a giant heart - Sgt Reckless, America's War Horse, by Robin Hutton. Read more about Sgt Reckless here.

The photo at the top is from Poppy Appeal Australia. These people found a unique way to remember the contribution of horses.

Feeding Tips for Horses

Last week, wife and I helped some neighbors out when one of their horses, a 3 year old gelding, was   seemingly was in the middle of a colic. Two of the hands were there but neither gent spoke more than a few words of English so my wife and I had a hard time with our limited Spanish explaining that muscle tremors, drum tight flanks, sweating, rapid and shallow breathing, and no gut sounds in any of the four quadrants spelled colic.  We advised them to get a Vet out pronto and tried to call one of our Spanish speaking vets to talk to them over the phone, but on a Sunday night it's hard to get ahold of people.   

On our north fenceline, these neighbors are in the process of building their horse facility.  I think one of the issues with this gelding may have been that after they finished the stall gates on the still to be finished barn, they were locking the horses in for the night and feeding alfalfa and grain - they are feeding these horses once day.  The horses had to wait to be turned out in the morning to have access to water.      

How did that little gelding fare?  Well, I wish I would have had the article below in Spanish, for these guys that night. But their horse came out his distress after 8 cc's of Banamine, a dose of Pro-Bios probiotic and some thin bran mash with mineral oil.  I haven't checked back yet, but hopefully they took the advice to feed twice a day and make sure the horses have access to water 24/7. 

This article came from the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA). While I think it's a pretty good baseline article for the care and feeding of horses, I have added some comments in italics.

Top 10 Nutritional Tips for Horses

Remember that old nursery rhyme that begins, “Hay is for horses…”? As it turns out, that’s sound advice for feeding companion equines—as are the following tips from our experts at the ASPCA Pet Nutrition and Science Advisory Service.

1. Base Your Horse’s Diet on Grass and Hay.

A horse’s digestive system is made to process large quantities of grass, which is high in fiber and water. The basic diet for most horses should consist of grass and good-quality hay that’s free of dust and mold. As a general rule, companion horses should be able to graze or eat hay whenever they want to.

Forage (grass and alfalfa) first. That's the motto of ADM feeds and something that guides my feeding program. It would be nice to have horses on pasture but there is very little of it in West Texas. I like to differentiate between alfalfa hay and grass hay. In my way of thinking a straight alfalfa diet is too rich in protein for most horses. I'm usually feed a 60-40 mix alfalfa and grass, sometimes more grass depending upon the cut of the alfalfa. Plus it helps balance the calcium- phosphorous ratio.

2. Feed Several Small Meals a Day.

Because horses’ stomachs were developed for grazing, horses function better with a feeding plan based on “little and often.” ASPCA experts recommend that horses should eat several small meals—at least two, preferably three or more—in the course of a day. When feeding hay, give half the hay allowance at night, when horses have more time to eat and digest.

I used to feed four times a day and did so for several years before I went back to three feedings day. I would think that two feedings day would be minimum.

3. No Grain, No Gain.

Most horses, even fairly active ones, don’t need the extra calories found in grains. Excess grains can lead to muscle, bone and joint problems in young and adult horses. Unless directed otherwise by your veterinarian or other equine professional, it’s best to feed low-energy diets high in grass and hay.

Good point that most horses don't need grain. I don't feed grain but I do feed a processed feed from ADM called Patriot, which is a 14% protein feed. My horses do well on this. They get about 3.5 lbs of this divided up into two of their three feedings daily. I feed this primarily for two reasons: to provide for vitamins and minerals they don't get in their grass or alfalfa, and to get their systems used to this processed feed to I can feed more to make up forage shortages when away from my barn.

4. Be Aware of Individual Needs.

Feed according to the individuality of the horse, including condition and activity level. Some horses have difficulty keeping on weight, and need more feed per unit of body weight. However, most horses should eat between 2 percent to 4 percent of their body weight daily in pounds of hay or other feeds. Your veterinarian can help you decide how and what to feed your horse.

Two percent is a good baseline number. For the average 1,100 Quarterhorse this would be 22 lbs of hay a day. Four percent is really quite a bit of feed. If a horse worked all day long, he would require additional feed to replace calories burned, but again 4 percent is a lot of feed even for hard keepers.

5. Water Works.

Plenty of fresh, clean, unfrozen water should be available most times, even if the horse only drinks once or twice a day. Contrary to instinct, horses who are hot from strenuous exercise should not have free access to water. Rather, they should be allowed only a few sips every three to five minutes until they have adequately cooled down.

Ensuring that horses have fresh, clean water is often over looked. Many places I visit have really dirty stock tanks and this does not facilitate the horses wanting to drink. Automatic waters are great keeping a supply of fresh water available. However, they still need to be checked every day for function. I have also seen issues with automatic waters if they are not maintained. I use old fashioned stock tanks. They allow me to see how much water my horses are drinking. I have to dump them once or twice a week to scrub them and re-fill which I don't mind,......ask me again when I'm 80 years old. The wet sand I create when I dump my stock tanks allows my horses' hooves to soak up some moisture which is good for the horses and easier on my Horseshoer.

6. Provide a Supplementary Salt Block.

Because most diets do not contain mineral levels high enough for optimal health and performance, horses should have free access to a trace mineral and salt block. This will provide your horse with adequate levels of salt to stabilize pH and electrolyte levels, as well as adequate levels of trace minerals. As long as plenty of fresh water is available, you needn’t be concerned about overconsumption of salt.

It's been my experience that while most horses will lick a salt block, many horses don't like the conventional mineral blocks. There are different mineral solutions from powdered minerals that can be top dressed on your horses grain/processed feed, to newer type mineral blocks such as the ADM GroStrong Mineral Quad Block. I provide a white salt block for my horses and I break up a GroStrong mineral block and keep a piece in each horse feeder.

7. Take it Slow.

Any changes in the diet should be made gradually to avoid colic (abdominal pain usually associated with intestinal disease) and laminitis (painful inflammation in the hoof associated with separation of the hoof bone from the hoof wall), either of which can be catastrophic. Horses are physically unable to vomit or belch. Overfeeding and rapid rates of intake are potential problems. Consequently, a horse or pony who breaks into the grain bin, or is allowed to gorge on green pasture for the first time since autumn, can be headed for a health disaster.

I change out from one cut of alfalfa to the next through a five to seven day period. Some recommend a more gradual change through a longer period. Either way, different feeds and different sources of the same feed should be introduced slowly. I would describe Colic and Laminitis a little differently, Colic is distress of the intestines which can be caused by several issues, one of the worst being a blockage (called an impaction) of the intestines, and colic symptoms are almost always a medical emergency for that horse. Founder (Laminitis) is actually the separation of the hoof bone (the coffin bone) from the laminae which can cause the coffin bone to rotate in the hoof capsule and in the worst case (usually requiring euthanasia) causes the coffin bone drop and even penetrate the bottom of the sole.

8. Dental Care and Your Horse’s Diet: Chew On This.

Horses need their teeth to grind grass and hay, so it is important to keep teeth in good condition. At the age of five years, horses should begin annual dental checkups by a veterinarian to see if their teeth need floating (filing). Tooth quality has to be considered when deciding whether or not to feed processed grains (grains that are no longer whole, such as cracked corn and rolled oats). Horses with poor dental soundness—a particular problem in older horses—tend to benefit more from processed feed than do younger horses, who have sounder mouths and teeth.

This is probably the most often over looked routine health care need for horses. Some advocate a dental checkup once a year. I average about every 16 months. A checkup usually results in some dental work as the Vet has to sedate the horses anyway in order to do the checkup, so may as well get some work done. Some horses will require shorter intervals between floating. Having a competent Vet do your floating, keeping good records on how much sedation each horse needs, is a blessing and helps keep your horses healthy.

9. Exercise Caution.

Stabled horses need exercise. Horses will eat better, digest food better and be less likely to colic if they get proper exercise. Horses should finish eating at least an hour before hard work. Do not feed grain to tired or hot horses until they are cooled and rested, preferably one or two hours after activity. You can feed them hay instead. To prevent hot horses from cooling down too quickly, keep them out of drafts or warm in blankets.

I think one of the worst things people do to horses is to keep them penned up too much. Regular turnout and exercise is not only good for the horse's digestive system, but develops a more mentally sound horse. It breaks my heart to see horses confined to small stalls, week in and week out - it's basically mental torture. When I ran a large barn years ago, I had a boarder keep her horses in their stalls, day in and day out for three, maybe even fours years. The stalls were better than most being a 10x10 inside covered portion with a 20x20 adjacent outside turnout. One day, I almost fell over when this women pulled one of her horses to lead it to one of the available quarter acre turnouts. She had the lead rope wrapped around her arm (lucky she was a very large woman with Popeye sized forearms) and as she was taking off the halter, the horse bolted thinking he was free. Once that lead line became taunt it pulled both the horse and woman off their respective feet. The horse was no worse for wear, but the woman had a rope burn and dirt grinded into her face,.....and she thought the horse was at fault. She didn't consider what it was like for that horse to have been penned up for 3 maybe 4 years.

10. Don’t Leave Home Without It.

Because abrupt dietary change can have devastating results on a horse’s sensitive system, you should always bring your horse’s food with you when you travel. Additionally, some horses will refuse to drink unfamiliar water, so you may also want to bring along a supply of the water your horse regularly drinks.

I've experienced horses not drinking strange water so this is absolutely true. You can try wetting your hay in a bucket with the strange water - this has worked for me, but the best case if having some of the water the horse is used to. I carry water in several 5 gallon plastic military style water jugs for this purpose.